Hi ..I intend to re blue a rimfire rifle using ballistol blue..should i completely strip the old blue and if so how...is vinegar recommended..then how to apply the ballistol blue..how many coats etc.thanks
Check this link for instructions.
Charter Member of "The Over the Hill Gang"
so what are you trying to achieve quality wise, perfect or better
the instructions above are great but for a one time deal the cost might be the same or more them a pro job
I have found cold bluing products are just so so but I found out flustration that if you take more then one cold blue product and mix them together I could be happy
so I little Van's instant gun blue, some Brownell's Oxpho-Blue cream and some Formula 44/40 so why them, well I had them on hand in the search for a good cold blue, one's to blue, one's to black and the other to thin
heat the metal is a big help and as many coats as it takes for you to be happy and after all that it will not be perfect or at lease not my perfect
on the blue you mention I have never used it
so there is my 2 cents and cold bluing is one of my least favorite things to do, I hate disappointment
How did the gun turn out?
If you haven't started it yet, consider rust bluing. This only requires Pilkington Rust Blue solution, boiling water, 0000 steel wool, acetone, and oil.
The guns I am asked to re-blue have scratches or dings in the metal that need to be polished out, but if your metal is in good shape you can strip and re-blue pretty quickly.
Potterfield has a quick process over view here:
I have used this on airguns, shotguns, rifles and even a revolver. Each item gets processed 6-8 times in the 'rust-boil-card-degrease' cycle. The owner of the revolver handles and shoots that gun a lot. He checked in last year to say the bluing is holding up perfectly after 4 years of hard use.
EXPERIENCE, n. The wisdom that enables us to recognize as an undesirable old acquaintance the folly that we have already embraced.
Done a few by way of the slow rust blue...it's really "ticky"...attention to detail is way-important (as you could spend a few days on a project, and screw it up and have to start over), but it can produce the BEST/LONGEST LASTING blue (more of a dark blue than a oxide black).
Same process used for muzzle loading browning.....not a blue, but the dark brown common to those times.
Don't take the instructions as "suggestions"...they aren't....it's not rocket science, but you have to take the time and follow directions.