So I purchased a used Micrometer Carriage Stop for my South Bend 10k Lathe, but when it arrived, the lock screw was bent with a tiny crack in the threads. I tried to heat it and then straighten it, but as you can guess, the head snapped off instead.
I decided to make a new one, but the head was knurled and I didn't have a knurling tool. Well eBay solved that problem with a nice new Aloris knurling tool.
I found some 4130 steel bar and went to work turning it down, single-pointing the 10-24 threads and then parting it off. I decided to blue it to help resist rust in the future.
The screw turned out very well and fits perfectly, but doesn’t have the cool text stamped into the head like the old one.
Well, that looks good. I've been wanting to make a mike stop for my 2 SB9's. I keep getting around it by turning the compound 90 degrees, locking the carriage and feeding in the ballcrank the amount required. Or use a dial indicator.
South Bend 9's don't have a feed dial on the tailstock so I put one from a 10k on both of mine. Not something I use every day but it's there. Was interesting making a necessary longer acme feedscrew. Threads came out beautiful in 12L14. So easy to get a great finish with 12L14.
"but doesn’t have the cool text stamped into the head like the old one"
Would it be possible to machine a "divot" on the back of the original head and braze on the shank of a 10-24 grade 8 screw which would be pretty strong?
The head of one of the "T" nuts holding my bench top lathe compound to the cross slide "snapped off" when tightening years ago. I brazed the broken "T" nut head to the shank of the screw and a bit to my surprise the braze has held up for years of "wrench tightening" the nut.
"but doesn’t have the cool text stamped into the head like the old one"
Would it be possible to machine a "divot" on the back of the original head and braze on the shank of a 10-24 grade 8 screw which would be pretty strong?
The head of one of the "T" nuts holding my bench top lathe compound to the cross slide "snapped off" when tightening years ago. I brazed the broken "T" nut head to the shank of the screw and a bit to my surprise the braze has held up for years of "wrench tightening" the nut.
I think it would be possible, yes. Maybe I can try that next, but I'll have to buy an oxy/acetylene setup.
"I'll have to buy an oxy/acetylene setup."
All that's needed with flux coated bronze brazing rod is "red heat" and a propane torch will provide the necessary heat to "flow the bronze" on small parts.
There is also the MAP-Pro gas option that will provide a higher heat than propane.......
"MAP-Pro Vs. Propane
MAP-Pro gas burns at a temperature of 3,730 degrees Fahrenheit, while propane burns at 3,600 F. Because it heats copper faster and to a higher temperature, MAP-Pro gas is a superior alternative to propane for soldering. If you opt to use it, the manufacturer recommends using a specially designed torch. Adding oxygen to the flame raises the temperature to 5,200 F, which is suitable for cutting and welding steel when precision is not required."
Propane.......
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Propane-Torch-Kit-333084/202539561
MAP-Pro........
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS4000KC-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-421120/312421319
Flux coated bronze rod...........
Anywhoo........I used "plain ole propane" and a flux coated bronze brazing rod to fix the broken "T" nut of my bench top lathe.
@cloud9ag If you want you can buy small letter punches to do the letters yourself just put the piece you made in a vise use wood around the threads head facing up supported by wood tightened up in vise just hit it pretty solid if it does not show up enough for you , you can line it up easy and give it another hit
