Not satisfied with what's available so I made one from steel. I wanted a slim one and did not want to add any length to the barrel the 124 barrel is already longish. The diameter is .740 and others I have are almost 1 inch. The length is 5 inches. Only about .060 thick. It only adds a few ounces. I put a little taper on one end by setting the compound rest over about 4 degrees. I used a nice sharp HSS tool bit to obtain the good finish. I'll nearly always prefer a nice turned finish to polish. Besides the machined finish provides a little "tooth" for the paint to grip. After drilling I had to bore the hole to .618. I can't bore that diameter 5 inches so I had to swap ends and drill and bore from the other side. I just swapped ends in my 3 jaw that runs pretty true. I wasn't worried about perfect eccentricity concentricity. A thousandth or two wouldn't hurt. I bored it a little bit oversize to allow an easy slide over the barrel. Cold blue isn't dark enough so I used a tough satin urethane paint. Then I just mounted it with blue loctite. I had to file down the front sight dovetails.
First picture is how I got the gun. I thought about using the Beeman brake but I don't like that look on this FWB. I cheated on the stock. Previous owner had done a refinish that was nothing special. So I just rubbed some walnut stain over it. I had nothing to lose. And then a few coats Tru oil. LOl! It came out very nice. Very nice.
After rebuilding the action and adjusting the trigger I think I understand what folks like about these. It cocks really smoothly. It fires with no twang at all. The trigger is crisp and light. I need time to shoot it !
I've seen lots of muzzle brakes on center fire cartridge rifles. They direct the expanding gases back toward the shooter, pushing the rifle forward, which reduces recoil. They are virtually necessary for those monster rifles that shoot the 45 BMG cartridge. Please tell me what exactly is an air rifle muzzle brake? If it reduces the report, I think I could get away with one of those here in California.
A proper airgun muzzle brake can vent off air that might otherwise disturb the pellet once it leaves the barrel. You often see these on match air guns, and some makers sells “air strippers” for PCP guns that do the same thing.
They can work on spring guns, too. I had a custom muzzle brake made by a gunsmith for a Beeman C2 that significantly shrunk group sizes. The end of the C2’s barrel was threaded, and the brake was made from a piece of steel bored around 0.200, drilled radially with vent holes, and threaded to fit the C2. You can find my writeup in the October/November/December 1999 issue of U.S. Airgun magazine.
I sold the C2 a few years later- I wonder who has it now?