Nice video. I have 4 of the Turk built Tommy's, 3 in .22 and one in .177. I bought both the 2nd and 3rd of the .22's from fellow members of another forum with the idea to convert one to an LW .20 barrel and one to .25 so I'd have them in 4 calibers. It's the only thing I'd change though. I like 'em as springers just fine 🙂
I re barrel the hatsans and have are own custom piston seals for the bigger magnums.
How ever this model same as a hatsan 95 we are currently having new seals made due to the initial design needed to be changed. I can re barrel your, but is it worth it ? ( honestly I say NO )maybe if you sent the barrel only and adjusted it yourself when you got it back as I do when I have the entire gun, so its dead on using a zeroed scope with in 1" of the DOT at target board
I'd guess "is it worth it" depends on how much you're charging to re-barrel a Hatsan. I've owned 20+ Hatsans and Turkish built Webley's. A good lot of Hatsan's springers came about because Webley & Scott went bankrupt, a group called Highland Outdoors bought all the rights, contracted Hatsan to build rifles for them, Hatsan made a few cosmetic changes along with new names so they wouldn't get sued and had a new line of springers that were twins to what they were building under the Webley name. I still own 14 between the Webley and Hatsan branded versions, 8 of those being the 4 Tommy's already mentioned and 4 Webley Valuemax .20 caliber springers. .20 was the one caliber that, while Hatsan had the tooling and was making them for the Valuemax, never did for the Tommy or any of their own Hatsan branded guns. Shame too because those .20 cal barrels were actually very good, very accurate and considered a well kept secret by owners on another forum I belong to. 3 of my 4 are and the only reason I can't speak for the 4th is because while I took it out to check for any shipping damage, it's still new in the box and never been fired.
I've never had accuracy issues with any of mine, Hatsan or Webley and don't think they need to be re-barreled. The only reasons for considering it was because Hatsan had that tooling and never did and because the original UK versions came in all 4 calibers and I thought it would be interesting to have my Turkish built versions the same way.
Great video Mike!
Thanks for taking the time to do it.
One question:
What is YOUR experience of using the gas spring with the body forwards? You mention in the video that some users do it because it works better that way in their guns, but I would be interested in your experience, especially as longevity of the gas springs is concerned.
THANKS!
HM
@stevep
Hi Steve.
Its amazing your barrels are good ,I have found its 50/ 50 chance if you get a good barrel or ho hum or bad barrel.
That's cleaning it first and then using a pellet & thin rod to act as a feeler gauge to find out what the pellet to bore fit is doing. theQE rifle with 10-1/2" barrels that came into my shop most had 3" of over sized bore at the end towards the crown. and typical of the 17-1/2" barrels likeon a 125-135 some were choppy or had 1/3rd of fee fall
rarely did I get a consistent smooth pellet to bore fit but I am aware of the guys who had good barrels also.
With re barreling a hatsan
its is not a one two . barrels need to be machined with a lot of care and not turned down to many thou at a pass
it can change the bore diameter and the breech end is a process because it needs to be dead on and correct for the seal height & fit above the barrel block all that you work up to slowly and make adjustment getting closer .
currently I now have a mill for both pivot bolt hole & barrel pin but before I did all that by hand.
and before all that takes place a new barrel has to be cleaned then usually the LW choke if it has one is way to much and it needs to be cut off , then the barrel must be set up in the lathe with the center of the bore using a dial indicator
so it has no run out or close as possible with very minimal run out, then the crown is completed & lapped down &
crown tested with a Q tip / then if choke is going to be done that gets done and all along that procedure one mistake and its a do over. (example say if you over did the choke) I been there so I know there is no rushing on doing a barrel
Not when I do one, I find it amazing how people think you just slip something together and it's done.
after wards I have to bend the barrel when gun is together using a zeroed scope so impact is within 1" of the DOT target
If I have some ones gun I charge 125.00 for all my time & labor for that replacement if some one sends the barrel only
its the same. But also and I am just sharing here, its a friendly honest share.
you can re barrel a hatsan but you still need to find out what else that particular gun is going to throw at you.
another words just because it now has a new LW barrel doesn't mean it will shoot accurately.
on the big magnums 125 - 135 Ive seen pictures where in Austria they came out with a better designed area for barrel block lock up, which has been a huge issue with them as a lot the forks were not close enough and the plastic make up washer hatsan used on one side was not enough to keep the barrel block from shifting when fired, or even the two thin washers on some that had the same wide spread forks/ I am keeping my fingers crossed they are doing the new designed lockup to keep the barrel block locked in place.
Working The Hatsans has taught me more about air guns then any other brand only because I never threw in the towel as a lot of other have, they simply said I am done with the hatsan and I can not blame them.
I had a saying in my shop
( Just when you think you seen & addressed everything a hatsan can throw at you here is one more)
With all that shared if you get a good one and go thru them properly and I have are own proper custom seals for them, currently they are being re made with updated specs and will be tested , especially the smaller seal for the 95
They are powerful accurate guns.
@hector-j-medina-g
Hi Hector.
I have never installed one with the body into the piston, it was more connivant to set it up having the rod inside the piston on the guns I worked with.
As long as the gas ram has been installed with "pre load " so when fired the rams arm can not reach the end of its travel or throw, It makes no difference which way they are installed. Only difference there may be is weather or not the set up adds more or less piston weight, or maybe not enough difference to matter.
There is one factor to consider is the way a rifle is stored when not in use.
In a sealed gas ram ( non Fillable type ) I would say if the rams arm is towards the end plug of the gun, the fluids in the ram would gather there if the gun is stored in a vertical position, like in a gun cabinet, and most non fill able sealed gas rams that is the critical end you would want the fluids to cover to keep things from drying out
Best regards Mike E.
@hector-j-medina-g
Hi Hector.
I have never installed one with the body into the piston, it was more connivant to set it up having the rod inside the piston on the guns I worked with.
As long as the gas ram has been installed with "pre load " so when fired the rams arm can not reach the end of its travel or throw, It makes no difference which way they are installed. Only difference there may be is weather or not the set up adds more or less piston weight, or maybe not enough difference to matter.
There is one factor to consider is the way a rifle is stored when not in use.
In a sealed gas ram ( non Fillable type ) I would say if the rams arm is towards the end plug of the gun, the fluids in the ram would gather there if the gun is stored in a vertical position, like in a gun cabinet, and most non fill able sealed gas rams that is the critical end you would want the fluids to cover to keep things from drying out
Best regards Mike E.
THX!
HM
