Not much of a handgun shooter, and spring pistols are particularly challenging. The only ones I ever got reasonable with are an IZH 53M and a Webley Hurricane. I had a Beeman P1 for years, but could never master it. This one was extremely cheap, but feels solidly built. Seems to have some potential, for the price. Umarex sells this platform as the SPA 100 and the SPA 60 with a shorter barrel.
My thought was to break it in, slow it down, then use it as a dart gun. Much break-in is needed. If you buy one of these cheapies, clean the barrel. What a mess.
Also, the trigger is fierce.
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/umarex-markpoint-air-pistol?m=6166
let see it is cheap, it looks like a toy
when i first saw this pistol, a while back my first thought was how do i take it apart because i knew the trigger would be horrible and reading the reviews i was right
so the question is spend 50 bucks on a pistol you know that will crap and see if you can fix it
or walk on by
buy one Jim we need to know
if you can get to the trigger group or the springs it should be able to make it better if it uses torsion springs it will be very hard as i hate making them
Actually surprised at the level of construction. It does look like a toy, but honestly it doesn't feel like one. High quality polymer and decent heft. I might have opted for the shorter barrel if I could find one, but this thing's pretty easy to cock.
I probably won't get into it until I put a tin or two thru it, and it definitely doesn't look user-friendly for servicing, but what can I say? I couldn't resist the price. I'd love to get to the spring and add a bit of TIAT, and see what I could do about the trigger, but for now I'll just shoot it and see if I can learn it.
Cool, and I apologize for enabling. Let us know what you learn.well i ordered one from Amazon i will see if it can be improved i have a weaver mount idea already
Thanks Mike
it was just couch change
you said you have a 53M, i got the middle version with the clamp on rear sight
i did a number on mine and it turned out very nice made a small front top hat and a rear guide that was in the rear cap doubled up the thin washers on the spring ends and polished the spring, took a 3mm x 8mm grub screw and put it inside the trigger spring that does nothing new seals and it became a whole new pistol
the rear guide idea was shown here but i just use the factory rear cap
Another Airgun Blog: IZH 53M -- Finishing the End Cap and Reassembly
@marflow The only thing I've done to my 53M was to notch the plastic endcap to match the dovetails. That let me hang the rear sight off the back so I could adjust it low enough.
I had a gen 1 53M with the target grip, which i foolishly sold. I much preferred that grip, and would love to find another one.
got the pistol today
the packaging is adult proof
now the pistol after i few shots
the sights are worthless
the trigger is as bad as i have ever had
so, with those 2 items accuracy will never happen
grips are big so for a youth that could be a real problem
cock is very easy which makes all the rest a real shame
the grip safety is there for what other then make it seem to be 1911ish
not real heave and sets in the hand well at least for me
now i think pinning the grip safety could be in the works
disassembly would be a total thing whereas it is just 2 clam shells with all the gut inside and that make experimenting harder
so, at this point i need to find the right Phillips screwdriver and a box
would i ever recommended the pistol not at this time
now if they had put a weaver rail in the castings for a Reflex sight that would have solved one problem, the grip safety was a waste of time and even a 30 to 40% better trigger would have made me go everyone needs one but without that no one needs one
i will be looking under the hood stay tuned
so, opened up it came and to my surprise a very complicated trigger group
you have the grip safety that blocks the triggers rearward movement
it has a forward spring that is retained on the grip safety
has a upper pin that acts as the upper sear reset spring attached
the trigger has a spring in the slide assembly that has to be compressed to reach the lower sear and it acts as a trigger reset
push the lower sear and that disengaged the upper sear
both upper and lower have reset springs
so why is the trigger so heavy because of the main sporing pressure on the upper sear
can the grip safety be pinned YES
can the trigger be made lighter yes some the trigger return spring can be lighten and at the same time engagement can be made to happen faster HOW
use lighter spring and fill the inside of the spring with a grub screw
now the rest
you can make the area that the upper and lower sear engage less, making the trigger pull fast
all the lower sear is doing is clearing the upper sear
the weaver mount should be straight forward you have plenty of barrel top to work with and epoxy will be your friend
well time to think a bit and try i few things
will it be a target pistol no but a project it can be
they did a lot right things and then just gave up, you can see the trigger group has had much thought put into it
my read on this pistol
Mike
@marflow Mike, thanks for your bravery. I've archived your post and photos for when I get enough courage to open mine up. Like I said, I plan on just doing a typical 2-3 tin break-in before opening it up.
It looks to me like the grip safety is tied to the upper sear. Why not remove the grip safety compression spring and pin the grip safety in compressed position? The pistol has a manual safety if you feel the need.
One question: have you found a way to access the spring thru the cocking slot? As I said before, I'd love to add some TIAT.
Thanks
so i have had some success and some failures
i replaced the small spring in the slot with a 3mm x .3mm wire at 15mm length that is good
took the pin off the grip safety that contacts the trigger bar that is fine and the why is the grips safety help hold the upper sear spring that is in the safety in place and it is the least of my worries
i epoxied a 2mm roll pin to the front of the trigger bar back to it in a second
i took off .8-1.0mm off the sear also but with the 2mm added to the trigger bar and the bit off the sear it worked and then it didn't
when it did it was magic and when the 2mm came of the trigger bar i was 30% better
now the upper and lower sears are beautiful wide polished and work well
the pins holding the sears are robust and fit well
one problem is all the little screws that are need the take the gun apart
you can bench test it and watch what is going on but you have to reassemble to test
what next
i think i will epoxy about 1mm of material to the trigger bar
if you can preload the lower sear enough but not too much the trigger will be very workable
and running pellets through the gun will not change the trigger pull it is not that type of trigger
trigger bar is pushed into the lower sear and that clears the upper sear to drop down and release the piston
the 2 small spring on the sears are different and if you lose one you will be toast
so that is the update
mike
the trigger work is done, is it a great trigger NO but it is far superior from where is started
after i reduced the upper sear engagement by about .8-1.0mm and added 1.98 to the trigger end of the trigger bar it was pushing the lower sear too much and i needed the bar to contact the lower sear but not very much
so the 1.98mm pin that i epoxied came off and a 1.67mm drill end was epoxied on in its place
you are reading that right i changed it .37mm
the bottom line is this pistol can be made to have a better trigger and the truth is no one will ever do what i have done
with the trigger done the sight will be addressed and i believe a weaver mount will be epoxied on the barrel for a reflex sight
could a fine tune the trigger more, MORE THAN LIKELY, am i, NO
REMEMBER THE TRIGGER BAR SPRING WAS CHANGED TO A 3MM X .3MM WIRE AT 15MM IN LENGTH AND I USED ULTIMOX 226 ON ALL BEARING SURFACES
I got brave and opened mine up. Didn't make any modifications, but I lubed all pivot points and bearing surfaces with Mac 1 secret sauce. I would say maybe 25-30% improvement in the trigger.
Mine seems to shoot consistently low. I am considering filing a little off the front sight. If I go too far, I can always build it back up with epoxy putty.
the sights suck the front is too thin and the rear is a waste of time
i think you should work on the rear sight
completely block of the slot and mount it above the top of the sight
a piece of plastic with a slot, taped on would be a start
well the grease on mine seems to help
if the trigger was pushing lower on the lower sear that would help also, leverage
TAU-7 TAU-200 Rear replacement sight blade Please choose from drop down menu | eBay
i am still working on a rear dovetail mount
