Just had my RWS 34 clone apart for the third or fourth time to finish up some tinkering around and not sure what happened but my rifle will no longer cock. The piston doesn't travel far enough to engage the auto safety and when holding the barrel down and pulling the trigger it only makes a click that leaves the piston latched, but still won't travel far enough to engage the safety. Pulling the trigger again fires the rifle.
Outside of the rifle it works fine, the piston shaft will go in far enough to engage the safety and stay latched, pulling the trigger while pulling the piston will release it and it will latch again next time without having to pull the trigger. So what did I do? What am I not doing correctly? The trigger assembly wasn't taken apart and everything has worked fine the other times the rifle has been apart. I haven't done anything different so I'm really stumped here and there isn't much around the web about the T05
Well, I read what you wrote, but something isn't right here.
You didn't change a single thing? Not the spring, the spring guide, nothing?
If that's really true, I wonder, did you take the trigger unit apart into separate pieces? There are a couple of cocking plates that can get turned around, and having them in the wrong positions might cause it.
If all else fails, I know you said it works correctly outside of the rifle. But, you could try reassembling it all, without the spring in there. I won't spell out all the possibilities, but that might get you somewhere
Just keep in mind, that like you wrote, and unlike some other air guns, the piston won't exit the trigger unit when you pull the trigger if there's no spring pulling it out. You'll have to simulate that action another way to test that. But...
You didn't say the rifle wouldn't fire. You said it wouldn't set the safety and cock. That's different.
This may not be the sution to your problem, but it may get you started in the right direction.
I'm sorry, I didn't mention the only thing different is the top spring that's covered by that sleeve thing, the original jumped out and is hiding somewhere but the one in there now looks to be pretty close to what it replaced and luckily had no guide to run with it. And no I didn't have the trigger apart at all, I purposely avoid getting into RWS triggers because of all the finicky parts and there's no need to get inside when dinking around with the spring and piston. The trigger spring only ran away because I slid off the sleeve to see if the problem was visible.
Once the rifle was back together it wasn't cocking, almost like the spring was completely compressed and it couldn't go any farther. But if I hold the barrel down and pull the trigger it latches the piston but the piston doesn't travel any farther and I even tried pulling the safety to see what was blocking it but it looks like nothing is in the way. It does work correctly when assembled without the main spring which is why I'm completely lost since it seems like the pressure of the main spring is somehow causing issues.
I emailed Mike Melick and he confirmed those two plates are correctly oriented and was who told me the trigger units need to be "reset" after reassembly by holding the barrel and pulling the trigger.
I.wonder if that trigger spring you replaced is too long with all the coils stacked when compressed, such that it could go into a coil bind situation that would prevent the piston from going all the way back? You know, similar to a coil bind situation with a mainspring, that causes the same problem.
But, maybe I'm misunderstanding, because, you said you didn't disassemble the trigger unit. However, the spring you seem to be describing is located underneath the trigger unit sleeve or cover. (That's the part you mean, right? The black plastic cover that envelops the metal parts of the trigger unit?).
I'm sorry. I guess I'm just not following you very well. It can be hard from just reading words on a page.
You can just call me "dolt" for the rest of the week, guess my quick-maths were off. I cut a couple coils off the main spring and just threw in a top hat I had laying around and it was thick enough to bind the coil just before latching the piston. Guess that's what happens when you think you can get away with skipping over multiplying wire thickness by number of coils and going by eye. Thanks for joining in on this short nightmare of mine. I'm always hindered by the easy solutions I overlook
That's a common mistake.
What's unfortunate and a little disconcerting is when you wrote that everything is exactly the same...
Then, after my engaging the grey cells to try to help, and typing a good bit of text, you decide to mention that you altered the mainspring, and added a too hat, too.
???
Shame on you. No more soup for you!! Lol. ?.
Haha, I could swear there was no way a 1/16" thick top hat was going to offset that much thick wire so that's why that was overlooked. In my (weak) defense the past couple weeks haven't been so sleep friendly but I'll kindly step away from the soup line now and maybe just look at pictures of guns on the computer instead!
But for anyone interested in my results, here are some unscientific test results:
--Stock
RWS RifleMeisters 8.2gr - 980ish - 17.5 fpe
HN Baracudas 10.65 - 830-840 - 16.5 fpe
--After removing 5/8" or 1.25 coils
Crosman milk carton "pointed" 7.4gr - 980's - 15.8 fpe
HN Baracuda - 770's - 14 fpe
And WOWEE did hold sensitivity disappear. Took two pellets downstairs and made a ragged hole with each barely even trying which usually took zen focus before. So hopefully someone gets something out of my drowsy escapade, sorry to bring you all in on that but when you're stumped you go where the knowledge is and I've been around long enough to know there are some seasoned brains here!
