After removing the HW95 rear sights there remains tapped holes and a dowel hole in the barrel pivot block that may allow water to enter. There are several methods of filling these holes using plastic inserts, Etc, however the threads are a practically "unobtanium" M5-0.5mm fine thread.
Well, I was told told of a source for M5-0.5mm set screws from eBay, listing grub screws of different lengths from a pull-down menu, including M5 x 0.5 mm pitch. The vendor is at VietNam and ordered a 25 count pack of 3.5mm long screws ...........
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124421450075?hash=item1cf818a95b:g:QsIAAOSwdhNfoLdS
The screws were ordered on Sept 21, 2021 and arrived at my NC home on Oct 21, 2021.........
Previously I had bought some normal M5-0.7mm set screws from Lowes, then rethreaded them using a M5-0.5 die and this worked fine, however I did need to "mollest" the screws by rethreading and shortening them to 4mm long.........
The final 4mm length is what prompted me to order the 3.5mm long set screws. The "store boughten" screws fit perfectly with no modifications except applying some blue LocTite to the threads.......
Perhaps this info will be useful for those looking for M5-0.5mm fine thread set screws.
As a side note, I filled the rear sight dowel hole with black RTV rubber. Here are the pivot block sight mounting holes before filling.........
so most people find a little push in plugs to fill the holes, easy to fined
so you looked hard to find or make some grub screw to fill the holes but what did you accomplish, you have made the round hole, HEX
there is still a hole
people have been using black wax to cover plates to cover up those 2 little holes
i have never seen such a fuss over 2 holes
black plastic push in plugs - Google Search
i have never seen such a fuss over 2 holes
Depends on where you've been... ?
Seriously though, I wonder how many of the sight cover plates would sell if they were available?
The purpose of the post was to mention that "Perhaps this info will be useful for those looking for M5-0.5mm fine thread set screws" so if it was of no use for YOU it was useful for me and perhaps others.
As a side note, later HW95s have THREE holes, two threaded and one dowel. Notice that plastic caps like this don't seal sight locating dowel hole............
Initially I sealed the holes with black silicone rubber like this, quick, easy and worked well, however I wanted a more cosmetic way to do the same..........
Personally, I like the set screw filler to be better and with the set screws with the correct thread and pitch ordered from VietNam it was/is a very simple solution with only a bit of blue LocTite required. As mentioned .........
@1hp
I saw that but they cost .92 cents EACH with a $5 MINIMUM order so I never even checked the shipping charges. The Ebay purchase was about $13 for a pack of 25 and had free shipping if I was willing to wait for the order to jump through the "international hoops".
Anywhoo, the remainder was put into a "parts drawer". I'm intending to replace my origional .177 R9 barrel with my spare .177 HW95 barrel and I'll be using the odd set screws to fill the empty sight mounting holes. The R9 barrel had a looser bore than the HW95 barrels and the R9 worked betterl with boxed die lot marked and dated Crosman Premiers I've used for a few decades, however they have become "unobtanium". The tighter HW95 bores work better for pellets with smaller inconsistent heads like JSB Exacts.
I always use beeswax. Soften a small roll between finger and thumb, then insert, smoosh, and trim. A black Sharpie makes them disappear, and they are easily removable.
Beeswax is also ideal for filling the breech mounting screw in the loading trough on Crosman 22XX platform guns. No more pellet hang-up.
@nced Got the set screws you recommended, how ever they are short. So I take it that I flush them up with the lock tight?
Yes, they are "short" however blue thread locker will hold them in place flush with nthe top of the pivot block and seal out moisture.
When I ground the modified set screws to 4mm long they wouldn't sit flush with the pivot block like this...........
Here is the setup with 3.5mm long set screws. This .177 R9 barrel has no dowel pin for locating the rear sight (came with no sights) but for the HW95 pivot block that had "factory irons" I also used black silicone rubber to seal up the dowel pin hole...................
A drill chuck or a collet and collet block. That's what I'd do. I realize most don't have collets or a collet block but try a drill chuck and see. It worked for me before.
I've always just used pliers. Preferably the flat part of pliers. Squeezer tightly so as not to slip while twisting back and forth while pulling upward. I've seen them loose enough to remove with fingers on occasion. A drop or 2 of MP5 or similar oil if it is a tight fit, first. I have a pair of flat of pliers with mildly serrated jaws I use for this. Never found one that was too difficult to remove this way in my experience.
@straitflite I do have a Dremel chuck that I salvaged, gonna try that.
I feel your collective pain. Empty screw holes drive me starkers. As do empty/extra gun cases (they need to be filled too) and extra scopes (they need a new gun under them pronto.) Some would call this OCD. I call it; having your stuff just how you like it and no one can tell you you're wrong.
This is how my "fix" turned out.
Case in point. Some of you might have noticed the Leupold Delta Point in the background in one of those photos. It came off my P1 when I scoped it. That thing is driving me crazy. I keep vacillating between selling it on eBay for (possibly) more than I paid for it or putting a new gun under it.
So here's to properly filled screw holes. May they not torture us so.
nced - As always, many thanks for your thoughtful post. Your attention to detail is both informative and enjoyable.
@straitflite I'd love to find some of those screws and bushings for the plate. And a complete plate kit! I have a plate but removed it to prototype it for a possible duplication project. That was going to be very expensive, by the way, so I dropped it. My R9 never had but needs a plate and my R1, well....
In the process of removing the plate I finished off the already buggered screws and bushings and need a new set. For reference, I'd avoid blue loctite for these tiny screws, it makes them very difficult to remove without a little heat. Loctite makes another product that's made for very small screws that won't lock the parts together.
https://www.amazon.com/LOCTITE-Strength-Mil-Spec-Purple-Threadlocker/dp/B009KBGI4M
There's no load on these screws, you just don't want them to simply fall out so not a lot is required to keep them in place.
I do agree that these small set screws only need to be "sealed" so the low strength thread locker is good.
While the high strength "red thread locker" MIGHT be an issue with smaller 5mm screws, I haven't had any issues removing smaller screws secured with medium strength "blue thread locker".
Hi Ed. Glad you were able to find some screws to fill those odd sized HW screw holes.
Just wanted to say that since that pic of my HW30S was taken I've "upgraded" from the shaved down automotive body plugs to furniture grade screw covers, lol. They have to be "glued" on with a bit of silicone but I have them on most of my HWs now. They're lower profile and glossy so blend in much better. Unfortunately, I still have to fill that hole for the HW sight pin with silicone. I even used some of the covers on my Diana 34 Pro Compact with the matte finish. I have a Dremel 3-jaw chuck mounted on a screwdriver handle for a pin vise and chucked a couple of the covers in that and turned them by hand against some well worn emery cloth to knock off the gloss. Worked a treat.
The HW30 as it is now.
And the 34 Compact.
@jim-in-swmo
Looks good!
Hi Guys
I make mild steel screws for HW if anyone needs some.5MM Mild steel metric fine screws in either black or in the white for your own refinishing. CNC machined. Pictured fitted in HW80
Made in the UK
