Took my RWS to the range today. I haven't had it out in a while.
First Chrono results
you can see the gun shoots very consistently.
Shot this group at 25 yards. I then discovered the scope mount was loose, so its only 4 shots.
Nice gun. My Dad bought it many years ago, and I inherited it when he passed in 1996.
that's is nice model 6M, with the factory target grips and barrel weight--25 yards is a bit of reach for these but what the hey
now a serious question when were the seal last changed if at all, it seems to be shooting up to spec, I would use 7 gr pellets in it though
if you need new seals get factory seals, I know that Air Rifle Headquarters has them but the breech seal is to thin and the front seal is to big and you can't turn it down very easy with the geared piston
oh well nice Diana I own a bunch of them
that's is nice model 6M, with the factory target grips and barrel weight--25 yards is a bit of reach for these but what the hey
now a serious question when were the seal last changed if at all, it seems to be shooting up to spec, I would use 7 gr pellets in it though
if you need new seals get factory seals, I know that Air Rifle Headquarters has them but the breech seal is to thin and the front seal is to big and you can't turn it down very easy with the geared piston
oh well nice Diana I own a bunch of them
Marlow, I sent it to an airgun specialist about 10 years ago and had the seals replaced.
you are in great shape then, the old original factory seals turn into a real mess
again if you get a chance down the road get a tin of RWS R-10's in 7 grain or even some Meisterkugeln in 7 gr
it is great to see the Diana pistols here and I know you like that pistol but if you come across a Model 10 they have a much improved trigger and you would be thrilled
take care
mike
you are in great shape then, the old original factory seals turn into a real mess
again if you get a chance down the road get a tin of RWS R-10's in 7 grain or even some Meisterkugeln in 7 gr
it is great to see the Diana pistols here and I know you like that pistol but if you come across a Model 10 they have a much improved trigger and you would be thrilled
take care
mike
yeah, the trigger on the 6 is not that great. Otherwise I really like it.
well yes the trigger is adjustable but it has it's short comings
the front screw is a locking screw so that's no help, the little screw in the back screw tensions a spring over a ball bearing that acts as a first and second stage and the big outside screw deals with trigger take up but if screw in too far the gun will not fire and that's the rub
there is nothing to polish, it is what it is
I will have to tear into one and see but a think it's a waste of time, I got 8 model 6's in different forms and being a trigger nut I'm sure I would have done something already
the let off isn't bad but the take up is, so fix the take up and make it fire, I don't know ?????
I will see tomorrow
the interesting part of any gun is if you can see the trigger parts work when on the bench, table in my case and if you can adjust the trigger even better and the model 5's and 6's are that way
the place where the hook and the trigger intersect are the only places that can benefit from any polishing but from the factory they in good shape
so are there any mods that could improve this trigger and the answer is no, all you can do is adjust it till it won't fire and back it off till it does and this all can be done with the frame off setting on your work table
just hook the hook on the trigger and watch what happens
now on the small, inside adjustment screw, that put more or less pressure on the spring which in turn makes the ball harder to compress and you will see the little protrusion on the trigger to do that and the outside screw raises the whole screw assemble to engage the trigger, again to much and the trigger will not release
again the best Diana pistol trigger is a model 10 and it as good as any FWB 65
I did a complete rework on a Diana lp8 and that sloppy trigger can be made to be better then the model 6 we are discussing here, another time maybe
Thanks for the interesting notes on the model 6 trigger! I would add the classic model 5 uses the same unit if I’m not mistaken.
And no argument on the model 10 and its trigger. Really quite an amazing air pistol, and in its day the only real spring-piston competitor to the almighty Feinwerkbaus. It’s hard to imagine that any better air pistol in the classic German break-barrel format will ever exist.
Very nice 6M Beezer. I have several 6's myself including a 1975 HyScore 819(Diana 10). These are fantastic pistols. I sold off a FWB 65 and kept the Diana's. To me the Giss system is just more enjoyable to shoot and is equally if not more accurate in my hands. The 10 is in a league of its own and has an infinitely more adjustable trigger. Mine are shooting 427 to a hot 474fps with RWS Basic 7.0gr, so your numbers sound healthy as well. These are a very accurate and inexpensive alternative to the $$$ pellets.
Here's two of the best explanations I have found of the trigger adjustment procedures for these pistols.
First
1. The plain slotted screw in front is the locking screw for the trigger mechanism. It makes no adjustments. The hollow slotted screw behind it (just in front of the trigger blade) adjusts the length of first stage travel. Turn it far enough in the counterclockwise direction, and the first stage is eliminated entirely. In the center of the hollow screw is a smaller screw that adjusts trigger-pull weight. Once everything is set to your liking, tighten the front screw to lock the settings.
2. Credit to Tom Gaylord and is for a Model 72 youth giss rifle (essentially a model 6 action in a rifle stock) but I believe the premise is the same
" Two trigger adjustments
You can make 2 adjustments to the trigger. You can adjust the length of first-stage travel, and you can adjust the amount of second-stage letoff — which means the weight of the trigger-pull.
BUT — Please read this and believe it. These two screws — one inside the other — act in unison. As one is adjusted, it affects the other. It is extremely easy to adjust them OUTSIDE the safe range, in which case the trigger stops working altogether. When that happens the gun can be cocked, but cannot be fired!
To be safe, when that happened to me several times, I always broke open the action so the anti-beartrap would prevent the gun from firing. Then, I adjusted the 2 screws together until the gun worked once more. I did this several times to learn what each screw does. One time it took a full 10 minutes of working with both screws before I got the gun firing again!
Caution: This is very difficult
If you’re afraid of how sensitive this adjustment is — good! Stay away from it! The large hollow screw has a very small range of adjustment and can get out of the range very easily. But if you want to try this, below are the instructions.
Second
Adjustment directions
First adjust the length of first-stage travel (the small screw inside the large one). This can be done with the second-stage screw (the large hollow screw) locked in place. Turning the small screw out (counterclockwise) lengthens the first-stage travel. Turning it in (clockwise) shortens the first-stage travel. I tried to eliminate the first stage altogether because I know some people like it that way, but I was unable to get rid of the last little bit of travel. Formal target shooters use two-stage triggers almost exclusively, so perhaps Diana thought some travel was needed; but it also might be necessary to have some travel in this particular trigger for safe operation.
After you have the first stage where you want it, you can adjust the second stage. First, unlock it by loosening the locking screw to the left. I found the adjustment range of the large, hollow (second stage) screw extremely limited. It was possible to get out of the range with as little as one complete turn of the large, hollow screw.
I played and played with this adjustment mechanism and came to the conclusion that not only are the screw turns limited — the weight range of the trigger release is also very limited. That’s because this trigger blade is connected by a springy linkage.
The best I was able to do was reduce the release from 2 lbs., 1 oz. (33 oz.) to 1 lb., 8.5 oz. (24.5 oz.). The first stage takes up about the first pound of that weight, so stage 2 is very light and difficult to feel until you get accustomed to it. There’s also some travel in stage 2, but there’s no creep (moving and pausing at random points)."
Some pics of my 6's and cased Hy-Score 819 (10), interestingly the early guns had no threaded holes for a barrel weight and must have been added later. Also earlier Mod 6 guns had metal lower frames, while the later guns had plastic lower frames. I think all model 10's frames were metal.
