My question/concern is, what is the purpose of the metal sleeve? Also if it (the sleeve) has some barely perceptible up/down-left/right movement, can or will it affect accuracy? The barrel is solid as can be and it has a custom made muzzle brake put on it after a chop, choke and recrown by a professional AGsmith. Just want to know should I be concerned. Thanks
Cross Posted
Are you referring to the barrel sleeve? If so, the movement will not affect accuracy since it is not part of the actual barrel. My 1st Gen 54 can be easily spun by hand around the barrel's longitudinal axis. I don't recall any lateral movement though. As for the purpose, IDK. Maybe to allow fit aesthetics between compression to barrel via the reducer that is placed in between? Always thought a true blued complete barrel would be nicer.
Again, mine is much older so not aware of the differences.
@straitflite the sleeve is what I am referring to so to answer your question yes. It doesn't rotate or spin but you could feel that it's just a very minor touch bigger than obviously the barrel itself but not a tight fit if that makes any sense. But I appreciate your response and you among another member helped me to alleviate my worries and concerns. Thank you
My question/concern is, what is the purpose of the metal sleeve? Also if it (the sleeve) has some barely perceptible up/down-left/right movement, can or will it affect accuracy? The barrel is solid as can be and it has a custom made muzzle brake put on it after a chop, choke and recrown by a professional AGsmith. Just want to know should I be concerned. Thanks
Cross Posted
I think they add the nicely-blued sleeve to hide the real barrel, which therefore doesn't have to have as perfect a finish. It IS a little unusual, but not unique. For instance, some of the old Hyscore/Diana, double-piston Giss-system rifles also had an outer sleeve.
But, if you ever scratch up your 'barrel' (the sleeve, that is), all you have to do is replace the relatively-inexpensive sleeve, and all is right again.
That's especially nice if you already have an accurate barrel that you like. You don't have to try and replace that, taking the chance that the next barrel you get isn't as accurate.
A loose brake can create accuracy problems. Those who study such things pass it off to something called barrel harmonics. So, I don't like to leave the sleeve looser than it has to be. While some have used silicone RTV, etc, to remedy the situation, I don' t see the need to go to all that trouble.
Instead, I've found that if I simply loosen the screw on the front sight block, apply firm downward pressure on the block against the sleeve, and re-tighten the screw, the sleeve stops moving. BTW, I'm not talking about the screw on the sliding sight post. I'm talking about the one that's actually in the block, and sometimes hidden by the post.
If that doesn't do it for you, you can add a second set screw to the block. The older blocks were metal and required a standard drill and tap routine. The newer ones are plastic IIRC, and aren't quite as hard to work, with in order to add the second screw.
@ekmeister I don't see any screws in/on the muzzle brake. So I assume that it's glued on. And thank you for your advice and experience brother.