Baffles V2. These are a more typical baffle.
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For those of you following along, I looked in Thingiverse for moderators, and there are some, but I wanted one "just so" for my PRod. I also wanted the CAD file so that I can adapt it for other air guns as I see fit. The moderator pictured above took me about 2 hours to design in Designspark Mechanical and then another 1/2 - 1 hour to tune(baffles). I ended up separating the tube and end piece mount so that I can adjust the length of the tube in literally minutes, to tune for a particular gun and different baffle lengths and numbers.
I started a set of parts but halfway through one part detached from the printer plate and I had to abort the print, but not before I had enough to test fit. I am impressed. My cheap printer is giving me surprisingly good dimensions and accuracy! Below is a complete endcap pressed into a short tube(in the center)and the portion of the end piece that will be inserted into the rear of the tube(also the center piece). Anybody that 3D prints knows that you have to clean up stringing, fuzz and "bridges" and they seem to really show up in photos, but these parts are really good quality. They are snug and the alignment is great. That is a V1 baffle on the left and the new end-piece that just came off the printer pre-cleanup on the right.
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This is a complete endcap that I printed this morning, and it is impressive! it is dimensionally perfect, and the accuracy was only off by .15mm on the OD. I showed the bridge that was required to support the flange that makes up the rear of the tube, it is the rough collar to the left.
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I'm printing another cap and three V2 baffles now.
A lot going on with this update.
The end piece is mounted on a Prod barrel. It required drilling of the hole, the diameter is too tight. An easy CAD fix, this is a working prototype. Snug fit and you can see the gap narrows towards the screw. The countersunk hole and hex fit perfectly for a 4mm screw and nut.
New parts fresh off the printer without a problem. Again, they need to be cleaned up, but they are dimensionally perfect! 3 V2 baffles and a front cap.
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I'll start printing the tube which is the last part I'll need to complete the project.
After 2 failed tries I printed a great quality tube; unfortunately all dimensions weren't perfect. This is common, especially on the first prototype. The tube ID is .015 too small, the end piece won't slide in. This can be easily adjusted by either changing the drawing or adjusting the print size in the 3D print software, but the tube is a 6 hour print. The front endcap was an interference fit and is installed on the tube. The baffles were a perfect fit with perfect alignment. I'll fit the end piece with "subtractive" methods--hacking on the piece--and work on a complete, correctly sized set of parts which I'll eventually upload to Thingiverse. I wanted to take everyone along on one of my projects from start to finish.
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I'm close to completing this project. I apologize for the poor quality pictures but you should get the idea.
I thickened the tabs to strengthen the screw mount and countersink the hardware a little deeper, sized the hole diameter that the barrel slides into making it a snug interference fit and increased the diameter of the end that slides into the baffle tube. The side that slides into the baffle tube is a slip fit and needs another .005 but this works fine and will keep the alignment true, but I want a slight interference fit. Screws will be required to keep the caps from blowing off, I will probably use servo mounting screws from the RC parts box as they are the perfect size.
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The dimensions are very good, the locations where the caps join are almost imperceptible. This part is right off the printer and the flange support bridge has not been removed.
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This is the big picture. The cheek piece is also a design of mine currently available on Thingiverse. The complete suppressor is mounted(not currently available), and pictured. New red dot too. More on that later for anyone interested.
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