To me it just looks like a sloppy job when they were starting to drill the hole, or possibly when they tried to counter sink it for the screw head. Didn't bother to clean it off any more before bluing/painting. That's my 2 cents.
Looks like someone used a slotted screwdriver that was too long. You could cold blue it or use a birchwood casey touch up pen to soften the silver glare. I still have some KleenBore Black Magic that you could use with a q-tip.
i bet if you watched that screw as you cock the gun it caused the damage but why can only be guessed from my house
could the screw be bent
Looks like someone used a slotted screwdriver that was too long. You could cold blue it or use a birchwood casey touch up pen to soften the silver glare. I still have some KleenBore Black Magic that you could use with a q-tip.
I've got a touch-up pen, but what I'd really like to do is find someone that could peen it back and recut it, or cut it bigger and put a tapered insert in.
i bet if you watched that screw as you cock the gun it caused the damage but why can only be guessed from my house
could the screw be bent
From what I can tell, the screw in there now couldn't have done it. Of course, the screw in there now might have replaced one that did.
what gun is this anyway
could the work you what be done, i guess but a new tube would be a better bet, if a tube could be found
could it be peened, oh i don't know, i can't imagine how hard that would be and who could even try
when i see the make and model it will make more sense
what gun is this anyway
could the work you what be done, i guess but a new tube would be a better bet, if a tube could be found
could it be peened, oh i don't know, i can't imagine how hard that would be and who could even try
when i see the make and model it will make more sense
Walther LGV Spezial. The tube is available on eGun, and they're relatively inexpensive; the cost of getting one here is not. I've been quoted 400 eruo to export a rifle and the seller tells me the tube is subject to the same restrictions.
maybe
https://www.jgairguns.biz/lgv-c-78_344_348/wal2174642-compression-tube-p-13256.html
you would need a new screw also
look at pictures it was just countersunk, so how that happen is an unknown
but a repaired gun is a repaired gun, one that has a new replacement pair is a far better choice
you could not fix it for 72 bucks plus shipping
Have to ask, have you confirmed that the buggered up part is this base metal of the tube? There is a certain look to the metals that almost makes me think it's a poorly executed spacer; perhaps an attempted fix from some other issue..
Have to ask, have you confirmed that the buggered up part is this base metal of the tube? There is a certain look to the metals that almost makes me think it's a poorly executed spacer; perhaps an attempted fix from some other issue..
Possibly; I haven't taken it apart, but I'm fixin to.
maybe
https://www.jgairguns.biz/lgv-c-78_344_348/wal2174642-compression-tube-p-13256.html
you would need a new screw also
look at pictures it was just countersunk, so how that happen is an unknown
but a repaired gun is a repaired gun, one that has a new replacement pair is a far better choice
you could not fix it for 72 bucks plus shipping
Thanks for the tip! I've asked them to send me a photo.
A butcher replaced the round head screw with an oval head and washer. There's nothing wrong with the tube. If it was mine I'd make a new screw and be done with it. Take me 1/2 hour-45 minutes. Maybe Fastenall? A lot of parts are available on eBag UK. Shipping would be cheap. Royal mail international standard post is the way to fly. .....Get it? Fly? Airmail. He-he!
Protek supplies UK has replacement pivot bolts for lgv
Dave , Looks like the Spezial uses a sex screw for the pivot bolt. Perhaps someone couldn't get it to draw down all the way for some reason and used a washer to take up slack. You'll see when you get it apart.
The buggered screw can be easily repaired. See my post in "metal shop"
All the comments involving these NOT being tool marks are interesting.
The displaced metal on the screw head is consistent with a tightening motion.
The lack of bite marks inside the screw is unusual. Slotted drivers often displace metal at either end of the blade where it meets the screw slot (clockwise boogered) , but the screw itself is meh... not really hurt. Makes me wonder if the correct tool was unavailable, and a longer tool (pocketknife) was used at 90 degrees to the screw shank.
A hardened, sharpened edge of a knife blade would explain the unusual profile of the gouge, angle of attack, and the slight marks on the opposite side made by the tip. I've seen identical marks on scope turrets, usually right after I made them... 🙁 because I didn't have a penny... or something... WTF...
IF it's part of the tube (unlikely) I would tape around it, glue some paper to a flat block and melt it down slowly, de-burr and buff gently... before hitting it with a Sharpie 😉 However, IMHO, it looks like a washer jammed in there, as KWK said, to patch a fitment issue.
To answer the last question, please post a pic of the barrel, screw, and tube all assembled together.
http://www.carlwalther.com/views/ev_lgv-1.htm
look at this parts diagram
no star washer shown
looks like a sleeve used in the breech block and a screw in the end of the bolt
so maybe you have a rifle that someone just used what ever parts laying around
take a look at these picture and you will see a the breech bolt has a set screw on the right side
https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/walther/walther-lgv-s-junior/#post-34
as to the touch up i have found Brownell's Dicropan T-4 touch up, is one of the best cold bluing i found and i have tried a half of dozen
it needs to be heated i put in the oven at 175 degrees and use white cotton gloves to handle
all metal are different when cold bluing and magic marker is not the solution, do it right
oh it will cost more but if you can't do it right don't do it at all
well that looks better, perfect maybe not
if you go to Vintage Airgun Gallery and download some of there pictures to your computer to enlarge, the fit is better on the gun that are there
it seems to be the right screw but the bent part is hard to tell from my vantage point
fine a new screw, dress the hole maybe or just leave well enough alone
https://www.jgairguns.biz/lgv-c-78_344_348/wal2328771-barrel-pivot-screw-p-5097.html
oh a pricey little screw but it might fill the breech block hole better or it might not
spares are just that, you or someone will need one some day
Dave, is the little set screw an adjustment for how far the "nut end" goes on? Adjusting the friction on the pivot. A screw with a built in stop for the cap nut?
Also, the last picture shows the "screw head" nut seated too deep. Is that a correct part? Maybe too small and/or wrong profile. Just looks wrong compared to others I saw. They look to be flush. Not seated so deep. Protek offers the screw but I don't know if the other end (nut end) is available there.
Believe it or not I thought it looked like that kind of a lock washer in there. I could see the teeth in the 2nd pic of the OP.
PS Do you have the screw in backwards?
It would be hard to get the pivot bolt in wrong. One side of the fork is threaded and the other is not, plus the c'sink on one side is bigger than the other, so it would be obvious, even if the threads were gone. One the LGV, the head of the lock screw is slightly smaller than the diameter of the pivot bolt. In my opinion, it would look better if it were slightly bigger than the pivot bolt diameter, like a FWB 124. If you look at the photo of the pivot bolt on Protek, or photo of PN WAL2328771 on JG Airguns, you can see the head of the lock screw at the threaded end of the pivot bolt. I gotta get a new pivot bolt.
that is interesting what is at Protek, i hadn't looked there, i don't know why
but 5 different sizes that could be helpful to some
http://www.proteksupplies.co.uk/walther-spares.html
about 18.80 when converted