Having trouble finding resealing instructions for the older, soldered valve body Sheridans.
I have a Blue Streak on the bench with its innards in a box. Also have a reseal kit on hand.
Can't remember the order or orientation of some of the parts (that brass puck for the inlet, that eccentric spring, etc).
Search feature here does not seem to work specifically.
Any help is appreciated.
Here is a link to UJays Sheridan website.
Hunt around the site and you will find the rebuild order for all the internals.
Go to "UJays home page"
If you go to Pyramydair and do a search for Benjamin 397 schematic you will find it. The Sheridan and Benjamin used the same reseal kit so you can use this one to reassemble your gun. A tip: make sure everything is clean. Make sure that lip where the lead seal goes is VERY clean on the front of the brass part that holds the exhaust valve, and also the lip it sits on in the valve inside the gun. This seems to be where they leak down if it is not cleaned well. Also be careful to start that cone shaped rear nut straight straight, it has very fine threads and being made of brass/bronze like the valve itself, is softer than steel. I use thick grease (sparingly) to hold everything in place to reassemble the gun. You can easily find a schematic on the internet and there are videos to disassemble/reassemble a Sheridan on YouTube.
Thanks folks. Between posting and getting back here I found my original instructions and did the install. All done.
Best advice in the pages titled "Lets Rebuild a Sheridan" was to assemble the valve stem, washers and valve nut onto the tool before inserting into the air tube. Also recommended a 'sharp rap" with a mallet on that assembly to seat it. That compressed the lead washer enough to get the threads on the valve nut engaged in the valve body. I hate rapping brass into brass...but it seems to have worked. I backed the valve nut out one turn after the rap to find the start point. I didn't feel any cross threading as the nut went home.
Johnny's tip on using grease to hold the parts in place is a good one. I learned that when re-assembling a Diana 3-ball trigger system back into a rifle. Gotta be non-petrol grease though.
For cleaning the interior use cotton patches with acetone on a brush/jag. When it looks clean, I spray ethyl alcohol in under pressure and let drain into a bucket. Then I blow everything out with the air compressor. After it dries I blow in a mist of silicon oil. I sealed this same gun about 10 years ago. The owner didn't use it much. I think he put WD-40 in it against my instructions. The rubber face of the inlet valve and the rubber seal were all gooey. The lead washer looks re-usable.
