I am looking to purchase good working condition vintage target rifle, ie: Anschutz LG 380, Diana, 75, FWB 300s, Walther etc.
A good comparable PCP would also be of serious interest.
Please contact me with your suggestions and availability. In my early high school and collegiate years, I was a successful smallbore competitor and later a scholastic coach in high school. Looking to return to some of the shooting fun in air rifle. I have spent my life as a wildlife photographer for Nat Geo, publishing 16 books using many of those shooting skills with my cameras. Thanks, Ted
Ted, you should post a WTB ad in the classifieds here.
Also check airguns.net classifieds’s page. Jim E and Carel sell a lot of 10m guns there and are reputable guys. Be cautious with other sellers though, there tend to be a lot of scammers there.
Im not a big 10m guy but if you’re considering a pcp the AA/CZ S200 is held in high regards. Not a dedicated 10m gun but capable and beloved by many airgunners.
Others more knowledgeable on 10m will probably chime in though.
Also check on the targettalk forum. They are more into serious target work there. Those guns continue to show up from time to time.
Rick
so as a Diana 75 owner i would say buy one but let think about another group of rifles
single stroke pneumatics and if i had my choice, it would be a Feinwerkbau 603
the 75 is a very complicated rifle and the 300 isn't much easier to work on, the Anschutz i'm not sure of
in any case most of these rifle will out shoot the shooter and it should be all about the trigger and you know that
there is always something to remember, you can get parts from Germany from the gals at FWB, there support is first class and that is where the cheapest parts are
no matter what gun i buy, my first question is can i get parts
I just noticed your post.
I have an LG-380 AND a Diana 75 that I'm putting up for sale very soon.
They both need new breech seals (less than $8 because I just ordered a replacement seal for the Diana 75 to make it ready for sale).
I didn't realize that the seals from that era deteriorated and need periodic replacement. So I'm buying seals to make the pieces more attractive.
Both were fun to shoot. I didn't notice any mechanical problems. I just shot the LG-380 a few minutes ago. It's still a very fun recoilless air rifle to shoot.
There was a time that I collected every classic match rifle and pistol that I could get my hands on. But as old as I am, I'm selling out so my family won't have to deal with the collection.
You can contact me if still looking; or wait until I post them for sale. I need to research the price/value before putting up for sale.
Ken
You may want to consider looking for a Diana 66, the somewhat red-headed stepchild in the Diana Giss family. Many consider the angular stock unbecoming, so they are usually priced accordingly. Personally, I found the ergonomics of the quite unconventional stock very much to my liking. A properly shooting Giss rifle is unlike anything else. A bit Rube Goldberg, but an engineering marvel nonetheless.
I just noticed your post.
I have an LG-380 AND a Diana 75 that I'm putting up for sale very soon.They both need new breech seals (less than $8 because I just ordered a replacement seal for the Diana 75 to make it ready for sale).
I didn't realize that the seals from that era deteriorated and need periodic replacement. So I'm buying seals to make the pieces more attractive.
Both were fun to shoot. I didn't notice any mechanical problems. I just shot the LG-380 a few minutes ago. It's still a very fun recoilless air rifle to shoot.
There was a time that I collected every classic match rifle and pistol that I could get my hands on. But as old as I am, I'm selling out so my family won't have to deal with the collection.
You can contact me if still looking; or wait until I post them for sale. I need to research the price/value before putting up for sale.
Ken
Hey Ken,
Glad to see your post. I hope you are doing well.
David Enoch
Hi Ted,
I don't know how seriously you want to get into 10 Meter shooting. The springers are nice in that they are very reliable and durable. CO2 match rifles are sleepers in this discussion as they are very accurate and easy to fill if you are shooting in temperature controlled environments. The CO2 match rifles are probably the best bang for the buck. Match PCPs are to top of the class. Even an older model PCP match rifle is probably better than any of the springers or C02 rifles if you have a way to fill it.
David Enoch
I noticed your post regarding seals for an Anschutz LG380. Do you have source for these seals and if so would you share the information?
Paul;
I have become a big fan of the LG55 and the LGV, more of the LGV (both versions, 60 years apart) than the 55, but that is just the FT shooter in me.
If you are planning on getting into your 55, perhaps you would like to read this:
https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/eine-grossartige-dame
And if you ever get an LGV, you can read these two entries:
https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/noch-zwei-weitere-grossartige-damen
https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/noch-zwei-weitere-grossartige-damen-part-2-c
I do fairly often business with Gotha, but their online shop had been closed because they were attending courses (yes, gunsmiths and gun-related traders DO attend courses in Europe, and fairly often it is a yearly thing), so the store was closed and didn't want to post a link that would have been a dead end. They recently returned to work, and so I posted the link.
They are great people to deal with, if you have ANY problem, let me know and we'll figure out something.
Best of luck and keep us posted!
HM
This likely indicates some mental deficiency of mine...but I find the hardest part of re-building the old Walthers is getting the spring-loaded trigger safety slide turned and inserted correctly (!). Affectionately known to Waltherites as the "devil bar," it will bend or break if you cock the gun with it in there wrong, and replacements are hard to find (if you're tempted to think "I can live without a safety," note the trigger is permanently locked without it).
Hector's photos cover everything else beautifully, but I recommend taking SEVERAL pics of this area from various angles before removing it. I once re-sealed two LGV's together, and left one assembled as a reference while I worked on the other, LOL...!
Each one of us has his own method for thinking, there are no good nor bad, simply different.
Perhaps it's the engineer in me that tells me that these old designs were put together by people that knew what they were doing. Not by people that know how to make things cheaply and efficiently, as is the current case.
So I tend to think that there WAS thought put into the assembly process and the ease of maintenance.
Thinking in that way, I found that the trigger block was to be taken out before releasing mainspring tension, and by finding out the best way to take down I came across a simple strategy to not be defeated by the "Devil Bar":
First of all, do note that in the blog I make specific mention of retaining a mark or reference of the correct orientation of the retaining block's
After you assemble the gun's mainspring and have turned down the spring retaining block's (27) screw (30) through the Transfer Bar housing, you set the Transfer (Devil) Bar (54) in the housing's slot and you hold it there with your left hand, you can then slide the trigger block DOWN and into the recess at the rear end of the action. By sliding into that recess from the upwards position, then the Transfer Bar naturally slides over and "Clicks" over the trigger. If you see the end of the transfer bar, it has a pronounced rearwards slope, but a definite sharp forward corner.
Once the thing has slid and clicked, you make sure that the Transfer Bar can slide back and forth, liberating the trigger for action.
Now pull it towards the muzzle (you will need to exert some force against the trigger's spring)
You then lower the cocking linkage (15) into its place and this will "lock" the Transfer Bar in the forward (fire) position, so that the trigger can move freely.
It is more complicated to explain than to do.
Hope I am making sense and that this explanation helps other shooters.
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
@hector-j-medina-g
Well, I had a bit of trouble finding a way to pay for the parts (no Paypal, no credit cards accepted).
The good news is that the parts are here. Everything looks perfect. The Walther is up and running. The Anschutz is going to require a little thinking as to how to get the spring compressed. The configuration of the rifle will make things a bit trickier than the Walther or an FWB 300.
All that said, I'm looking forward to shooting the Anschutz with new seals and springs. I have a feeling that this is going to be a very nice shooter.
Thanks again for your help.
Paul
I do business with Europe fairly often, so I do have some perks as far as costs for wire transfers are concerned.
Anyway, glad you got the parts.
Keep us posted!
HM
Each one of us has his own method for thinking, there are no good nor bad, simply different.
Perhaps it's the engineer in me that tells me that these old designs were put together by people that knew what they were doing. Not by people that know how to make things cheaply and efficiently, as is the current case.
So I tend to think that there WAS thought put into the assembly process and the ease of maintenance.
Thinking in that way, I found that the trigger block was to be taken out before releasing mainspring tension, and by finding out the best way to take down I came across a simple strategy to not be defeated by the "Devil Bar":
First of all, do note that in the blog I make specific mention of retaining a mark or reference of the correct orientation of the retaining block's
After you assemble the gun's mainspring and have turned down the spring retaining block's (27) screw (30) through the Transfer Bar housing, you set the Transfer (Devil) Bar (54) in the housing's slot and you hold it there with your left hand, you can then slide the trigger block DOWN and into the recess at the rear end of the action. By sliding into that recess from the upwards position, then the Transfer Bar naturally slides over and "Clicks" over the trigger. If you see the end of the transfer bar, it has a pronounced rearwards slope, but a definite sharp forward corner.
Once the thing has slid and clicked, you make sure that the Transfer Bar can slide back and forth, liberating the trigger for action.
Now pull it towards the muzzle (you will need to exert some force against the trigger's spring)
You then lower the cocking linkage (15) into its place and this will "lock" the Transfer Bar in the forward (fire) position, so that the trigger can move freely.
It is more complicated to explain than to do.
Hope I am making sense and that this explanation helps other shooters.
Keep well and shoot straight!
I have found that if the "devil's" bar is correctly seated that it will be slightly movable, and if not, be careful! It's nice to have another LG55 or original LGV to examine for correct placement.
HM
VERY nice!
Congrats!
If you have a FT club that shoots indoors in winter, do take your gems.
They are a ton of fun scoped at 25 yards.
Keep us posted!
HM