I dislike the T06 Diana trigger
I have 2 Dianas with the T06 trigger, and I have been less than pleased with them. I really like the HW Reckord and the Diana T01 after a bit of adjusting. I like a very defined 2nd stage that is easy to come up against while pulling through the first stage. Pull weight to me is secondary to this well defined 2nd stage. The T01 really excels there.
My Diana 31 Pro and 430L with the T06 just felt mushy at the break. It was just hard to stage the trigger break for the shot. It wasn't quite as bad as a Gamo, but I was never impressed. I had read a lot previously and thought I had them adjusted as best as they would be.
As winter blues are setting in, I decided to try again as I was playing with my 430L as the recent posts got me interested again. I read and read, and just started playing with adjustments with trial and error, as I couldn't seem to get the feel I wanted while trying what seemed to be the "accepted" advice for best settings. This was much easier to do with the break barrel first as decocking was much easier for lots of trial and error.
On both guns I settled on the front 1st stage screw set 1/4 turn out, but felt that screw wasn't as critical. What I found after 2 days of trial and error was that I finally got that nice 2nd stage "wall" after turning in the trigger weight spring at the back of the trigger at least 2 turns. It really didn't seem to affect the pull weight much. After that, I found the cleanest break to be at about 2 turns out of the 2nd stage screw. There is a long first stage, and this could be remedied with an added screw at the front of the trigger blade, but as long as there is a nicely felt 2nd stage "stop", this is not such a problem.
So, the HW is the crispest, followed by the T01, and then the T06. I haven't played much with the T05. If one only has a couple of guns the lighter less defined setting may be okay as one gets used to feel that way, and many may consider it to be superior. I however have many springers, and only shoot some once a year or so. The T01 is perhaps my favorite. I hopes this gives others a different path to try.
Given what you posted about the time of purchase on the 430L DEMO piece that you bought from PA, I would venture that you have a defective sear bar in your T-06.
Since tat date, we have moved the injection port of the MIM mould to another spot and the "mushiness" has gone away.
You can also stone that bar smooth and be done with it, or you can Dremel a little "dimple" in it and create a "set trigger" where there are three stages: 1st stage, second stage (set) and then hair trigger.
If you want, send me your postal address and I will send you a corrected sear bar.
I agree with Hector.
It sounds like your sear bar is in need of a light sanding, you have your trigger adjustments close to where I like mine. The T06 is one of the easiere triggers I've ever worked with.
Watch one of the T06 trigger disassembly guides and sand/ hone the grooved spot flat.
My T06 triggers after minimal time are just as good as my HW and Tx triggers.
Thanks for the replies and advice. If it is easily improved, I will look into it a bit deeper. I was happy with the adjustments I made, but I do like to tinker so it sounds worthwhile.
I've not only worked on or with the T06 trigger in person, but I've also read read so many good reviews about it, that I was kind of surprised with the problems you were having as to not liking it, and why.
I know I had at least one of them in here, and when I adjusted it I thought it was just great! I also don't like a mushy trigger, or one that's too light.
If I recall correctly, with the right combination in the setting of those 3 screws, I was able to get more than enough weight in the second stage let-off to suit me for safe use in a field gun. That is, the two screws in the trigger blade adjusted the interaction of the first and second stages, while the screw in the back of the trigger adjusted the overall weight of the trigger. In that way, the function of the screw in the back reminded me of the function of the big screw in the back of a Rekord trigger. The T06 second stage was also nice and crisp, not mushy or indistinct.
In searching back in my memory a little deeper, I seem to remember that I had one instance where one of the T06 trigger parts with female threads in it snapped in two, and had to be replaced. That suggested to me that it might have been hardened, but not properly tempered. But, I don't remember which part it was. And, it's been so long ago now that Diana may have remedied that problem since then. In other words, I think it was a very early specimen.
In any case, it sounds to me like Hector has just the information and remedy(s) you were looking for.
I think Diana deserves kudos for providing the two screws in the trigger blade, allowing for separate adjustment of each stage. The interaction of the stages of a Rekord trigger has been very nicely set up, of course, with its two pieces of hardened drill rod on the topside of the blade. But, their interaction IS fixed, not separately adjustable like it is on the T06.
Hector and Ed are two of our best go-to guys when it comes to this. Hector has worked with Diana directly if I'm remembering correctly. (That's how much Hector loves that company's products)
Reminds me of the time(s) I esploded three ball sear trigger parts all over my basement floor... uff
The 3-ball (sometimes referred to as the pawn-broker) trigger is an amazing feat of engineering. While evidence before us seems to indicate extreme complexity, it is actually a remarkably simple and elegant mechanism. Much has been written about this unique solution to the age-old problem of holding back the power of a spring rifle mainspring. They really aren't that hard to understand, or even to work on. The only tricky bit is getting the "keeper" spring back into the tube. I always used a tiny touch of tar to stick the balls in place, then used the stuff-and-squish technique to get it all back in there. Others have used some sort of guide/shield to hold the keeper spring in place, then slide it out. The three-ball trigger, when properly set up, can in fact be one of the nicest springer triggers out there. Just ask any owner of a vintage Diana 27.
Oh how I miss some of the 45s I used to have. Especially an amazing black walnut factory stocked specimen with the darkest bluing I can remember Dianas having.
There was a great 35 I had as well. About a '71 or 2 if I recall.
Exactly: a dab of silicon grease or clear tar holds the balls in place for re-assembly. (and yes, I did drop those balls on the floor the first time I worked on one of those systems).
Does anyone remember the Vortek sear for Diana guns? I had one in a Diana M54 that made it as responsive and crisp as the Rekords. That M54 was an early T01 trigger version. I have not seen any Vorteks since then. Don't know if it was the same company as the guys out in Michigan. I may still have the paperwork around here from the sear.
Using a longer front screw (first stage) or a TX200 adjustment grub screw will let you get the clean crisp trigger pull you desire with the TO6. It's basically the same fix as the TO1.
I bought a used 2015 48 with the TO6 and had the same problem as the OP and found the casting spur hole under the first stage which I stoned out and polished to a glass smooth surface to alleviate the problem same as Hector M. suggested.
Slow to update, but I have been a bit busy. Hector did send me a polished new sear bar which I used in my 31 Pro. Thanks Hector. I used that one as an example, and polished the sear bar in my 430L at the same spot. As stated earlier, I was able to get a decent setting with the stock parts, but not great.
Stock sear bar on the left. The dimple is where the first stage screw comes to rest, so the transition from the first to second stage would be a bit less than perfect. The new polished bar and careful adjustment of the screws got the desired noticeable "stop" at the second stage. The break of the trigger is quite nice.
Where I still had problems with the T06 was in the LONG first stage. I believe this is a body mechanics/ physiology problem. If one is trying for sensitive finger control on the trigger, that goes out the window with that super long first stage. When ones trigger finger has to keep moving and moving the finger doesn't naturally transition to that nice "feel" stage as one finally gets to the second stage. A person can get used to it, especially if they only shoot one gun or if all their guns are like that.
I like 2 stage triggers, and even have a couple of old military centerfires I shoot, but the T06 is too long. The length isn't super critical, but I feel it needs to be in the sort of medium range. In this medium range, it is on par with the Record, T01, and the others we are used too. More importantly, fine trigger finger control is more naturally achieved I feel. That brings us to the set screw, which I think should have been part of the original design of the T06. That gets the T06 to its potential I feel in user friendliness.
It wasn't a real easy mod as the three pins and trigger levers had to be removed and then drilled and tapped. The aluminum doesn't tap as nicely as steel, so a #4-40 I tried didn't work too well. I got a 6-32 and was fairly happy. I used some purple (222) loctite on it and will see if the adjustment holds. As I said, I just wanted to take perhaps half of the first stage out. The tap was from the local Menards. I'm not exactly sure where I got the set screw, but it was at a home store. 6-32 X 1/4".
Hope this perhaps helps others a bit. I think both of these guns are from 2015 or so. I didn't feel the bad casting was the most critical problem, but felt it was really the too long first stage.
Thanks for the follow up .