Gamo Swarm Maxxim shroud removal
Has anyone ever tried removing the shroud from his/her Gamo Swarm Maxxim?
I can tell you from my understanding that you will need a dremel, maybe heat gun, some people have even put their guns in the freezer. Basically I’m saying it won’t be easy. May I ask what the intention is? Also check you PM for my trash talking of various forum usefulness and it’s severe deterioration and IQ drop over the past several years. ...
i have read this and looked and read again and looked and have no advice on the removal
but i do have some advice
you need to find a parts diagram and in doing so you will see what are parts and what is manufactured together
there seems to be set screws or roll pins at the muzzle brake area
and if that is true, there removal would be you first step
is there a seam at the breech block or is it a full cased piece
has the barrel and the covered been manufactured into one piece
sometimes it is better left alone and if you make it a mess, i don't think you will get much help from Gamo, i never have
I love gamo barrels. Only had a handful but I can always tune them to shoot as good as ones much more expensive. I haven’t had as good of lick with other brands and I believe it’s due to barrel quality.
However I completely agree with you about their support. Their support is horrible. I’ve written them several times with questions regarding newer and older guns and have never heard back.
seeing that i don't own one of these rifles, i have take picture and enlarge them to take a look
the rifle in question looks as though the shroud was cast-molded right to the barrel, in the manufacturing process
because the loading area is pined right to the shroud-cover pick one it is hard to say how you could change the setup
oh sure you could make spacer and get some carbon tubing and this and that but to what end
the damn rifle will not shoot better, will it look better maybe, maybe not
so after a chat at PA the shroud is over molded on to the barrel
and that mean it doesn't come off without a saw to cut it off
the front piece will come off with the roll pins removed
but how big will that barrel be a 15mm barrel of a 10mm pencil
Stick it in pan of boiling water for 5mim. it get rubber and pull it off"Put between boots and put schord between feet and pull up"thats how I got mine off a Gamo.
Willy1 is a factory authorized service center... 😉
Willy1 do you know what a Gamo Swarm Maxxim looks like if not take a look
now how would hot water work on this rifle and the shroud is part of the barrel
yeah... more eye damage potential than an errant projectile... oh that mag...
and I added the sarcasm winkie to my previous post... sorry bout that...
@marflow Hi guy,its just the first 2 or 3 inches the attachment.I would still put it in a bucket of hot water for at least 5min.their is a ring about 3" down the barrel.The ring is heated and forced on.Then the shroud is warmed up and forced over the ring.If ya don't want the shroud take the barrel off put it in a lathe. chuck with a tool bit,2-3 th. at a time .
@marflowI like the wenky"it makes every thing copacetic"
The accuracy of my Swarm is below what I expect. Several reviews have placed it as an accurate shooter. I have some older Gamos that shoot pretty well. I would like to take a look at the crown to see if that is causing the poor accuracy. I have already ordered a seal so when I strip it down I will have several options.
I’d upgrade to a GRT4 trigger just because. What is the accuracy like at 20 yards? What pellets have you tried? I’ve had JSB monsters AND jsb RS both do well in magnums strangely considering they’re opposite ends of the weight spectrum. I haven’t had your model apart but you can flip the gas spring around in the guns I’ve taken apart just to see if that helps. I wouldn’t be surprised if the seal has some nicks in it from the manufacturer but honestly I haven’t noticed damaged seals effecting my accuracy all that bad.
Also I’ve never had a swarm gamo. I want one though. I have no idea how it works. I’m wondering if it still allows you to seat the pellets differently. Like once you break the barrel down is that when the pellet is loaded or on up swing? The reason I ask is because I have guns that for whatever reason are sensitive to this... for instance a gamo hunter elite that likes CPLs that have been pushed in decently deep into the rifling with my modified Pellet pusher. Then another gamo that shoots HN FTTS good seated flush but not deep. Same gun shoots jsb exacts about 1 inch at whatever distance but when I deep seat it I get about half inch.
I have tried JSB (15.9 and 18 grain) , Predator GTO, Crosman Premier, and H&N Field Target. The GTO does better than the rest. I have used 3 different scopes. I have cleaned the barrel. The POI would shift around. I would get a decent group of 3 shots then poi would shift and give me another decent group etc.
What about scope mounts? Is it a one piece? Perhaps you either got a lemon. I can see why you’d want to check the crown... I’d also consider pushing a pellet down the barrel to check for rifling or unusual variations in tightness with emphasis on breech and choke.
If you’ve already done that im sorry.. just spitballing some ideas.