Hello all and thank you. I've inherited my dad's Beeman Feinwerkbau 300S. The free-floating barrel is stuck in position and the lever is nearly impossible to pull back to charge. I have done some minor Smithing in the past and would like to DIY this. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I only got the gun yesterday so I have not attempted anything. I am digging up old exploded views etc. and need to know where to look. I am imagining a tongue slipped out of a groove somewhere but really have no clue. Any pitfalls to avoid?
There is some excellent information out there on the web as far as schematic diagrams and YT videos detailing the safe disassembly of these fine air rifles. If you have basic tools and are savvy at using them, you should be able to get it apart to give it a good cleaning and then get the necessary replacement parts and lube from FWB, Air Rifle Headquarters or some domestic popgun shops (Airgunwerks, etc.) that service these rifles.
well the sledge frozen up is an easy fix by taking of the stock and clean and relube the front and rear sledge systems parts, the only thing with them is count the washers and put them back the same way by number
the internal part could be another problem that is far more daunting, seeing that the rifle doesn't have a piston seal as do most rifle made out of a synthetic seal of some sort, they do have an internal buffer but the piston has a metal ring on it's piston as it's sealing point
so the buffer could have disintegrated and is gumming up the works or ?????
but in any case the rifle needs a full cleaning inside and out and buffers replaced also inside and out
many of the parts can be purchased at the factory, the ladies are first rate when it come to service and there price will be the cheapest and the process isn't that hard
so take the stock of and look at the sledges, old dried or sticky lube is what you might find
these can be done by a first timer, I did a model 90 pistol but sweated bullets do it
in any case keep us posted, either you or someone else will have that rifle up and running right at some point and you will have a great air rifle for the future
Sounds like a tear down in order. If it won't cock, don't force it. When charging, cock to rear then a smudge more for battery. Front and rear action screws can be different lengths, and in wrong order can stop the sledge. If the rifle ever took a blow, front two or rear sled pin will bend, most likely rear. The two fronts are hardened most likely by looks. I have not tested them on the Rockwell. Hopefully the ratchet rack is not split, these are getting harder to source and are cast. Not bad to work on. Take pictures every step for reference. The cast ring in the piston is fragile on side load and expansion, be careful removing and installing. When installing piston into comp tube, I index the split ends of the ring 180 degrees from the knockout. They can get stuck here and can be a pita.
Breech seal, bumper, and artic spring from ARH are my preferred non-metallics. The cast piston seal is most likely good.
Use correct tools also, shy away of the hammers and crescent wrenches.
I still think if you take the stock off and look at the sledges you will learn I lot, guns setting for long periods of times like 20 years even with no damage will not come out the same way but we have some unknown also as poster because we have no idea what the rifles been up to for X amount of years
there are some factors with this rifle, it was your fathers and you have no money in it I'm guessing, so if it cost say 200.00 to have someone else do the clean up and bring it back to a 100% functioning rifle it would be a good deal but of course if you what the challenge and have confidence go for it
I wonder if I would do one, maybe, I have opened up some guns that I have never worked on they all work well but I learned as a kid if you can't put the clock back together don't take it apart and at 68 it is what guides me today, never make a basket case
in any case you will do well but look at the sledges first, take the stock off
The anti beartrap ratchet or pawl could be broken as well, preventing it from cocking. Take it out of the stock, and separate the sled from the action. If it still won't cock, the problem is with the piston buffer, spring, etc.
I've broken down the gun. Excellent videos! I could not find a thing broken or missing, although; The back sled "plug" with the two teats may not have been seated in the holes. These two teats straddle a threaded hole that looks like it should have a hex bolt. It did not. However, I went back to these videos and others and none of them included a bolt. Also, once I took out the back sled plug (with the single pin) and removed the two front sled pins the cocking lever was freed up. I went ahead and broke the entire assembly down except for the spring assembly inside the piston. I'm going to give her a good cleaning and re-assemble to 100% to see if we cured the problem.
so the old interior buffers were a white beige color and if you look in the breech port you should be able to see what color it is
I had a model 90 pistol which had the factory buffer and got concerned that being that whitest color it was old and bad, it was old but was not bad at all, it was as sturdy as the new green one I put in
I had seen pictures of that buffer a crumply mess of crap and at that point not doing it's job and harming the gun
so the piece of mind side of me, is saying I feel better know the gun has new components, the other side is telling me there was no need to panic
but it is good that you are having some quality time with the mechanics of the 300
Having brought a couple 300Ss back from the dead, I would say by all means replace the piston buffer. They have a tenancy to turn to a crumbly mass of brittle little fragments which get lodged in the transfer port.
For all their seeming technological sophistication, these guns are actually quite straight forward, and not that hard to work on. Do some youtube searches, take pictures along the way, and have at it. The steel piston ring seldom needs to be replaced. There are a couple of "tricks" to getting the sledge system apart, but again, youtube is your friend. After all, its really just a simple side-lever spring piston air rifle.
The first one I owned was a completely seized basket-case, which I acquired in a straight-up trade for, truth, a plastic Crosman AIR17! I took it home, did some internet research, took my time, and wound up with a wonderful shooter to factory specs. I only had to buy a new buffer, breech seal and spring.
Found it! AFT sledge spring is broke. Thanks for the great advice and encouragement. Now; are there better or more powerful aftermarket Springs out there that I should consider?
Found it! AFT sledge spring is broke. Thanks for the great advice and encouragement. Now; are there better or more powerful aftermarket Springs out there that I should consider?
I have been running these Artic springs as seen in the bag, and one on top of the FWB dual set up. I honestly can't tell a difference when shooting these between the single and double.
You have an aftermarket spring right there. the OEM is a double spring setup. Maccari has the arctic spring. That's about the best you can do. Not sure about other spring makers. make sure the bumper is not crumbling. I never even heard of that gun breaking a spring before but I seen it now. the main seal is steel and will never wear out.
. usually the bumper crumbles and clogs op the port.
This may be an oem spring because I am only taking picture of the broken part of it it is indeed to Springs put together. I've decided to order the spring from FWB.
