FWB 300S hot bluing...
 
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FWB 300S hot bluing & barrel shroud

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(@_10metershot)
Illinois
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 5
Topic starter  

I want to blue my FWB 300s however I have a concern.  The barrel shroud might be epoxied (locktite'd) in..??  Can you blue the barrel and receiver via hot bluing or will that disintegrate the shroud adhesive? 

Let me know if you have any experiences around bluing a 300s.  I see 300s's that have been re-blued but they all have the barrel shroud removed.

 

Thanks and have a great day!


   
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Prairie_Farmer
(@prairie_farmer)
Illinois
Joined: 7 years ago
Posts: 303
 

Not sure as the ones I am working on are the junior models.  Hard telling what the factory uses, but red loctite I believe needs around 500f or more.  And I think hot blue salts run around 325f.  You would have to reach out to the hot bluer.

Or have one done and find out for sure, worse case, epoxy it back on.

You could reach out to David Slade at Airgunwerks he is an ol Beeman tech and has done some of these I believe.

Prairie Farmer 


   
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Gratewhitehuntr
(@gratewhitehuntr)
Florida
Joined: 7 years ago
Posts: 1882
 

Usually 285-310, sometimes lower, depending on the individual bluer's mix and technique.

Almost any mix will be >50% sodium hydroxide (lye)

 

The larger issue I see is in cleaning the part. Crevices are problematic and tend to squeeze out old oil when heated.

 

A heat gun was the best $9 I ever spent at Harbor Freight, this MIGHT a bigger job.

Maybe heat the shroud with a (heat gun 1st) torch, clamp the barrel in the block, in a vise.

Heat treat isn't gonna be real important on this sort of part, but I wouldn't make it glow either.

It MIGHT twist right out! Don't let it slide around in the vise block!

If it's really stubborn, have someone hold the action, and drift the barrel out with a dowel while they twist.

I'd pad the end which touched the muzzle with something hard like denim or leather.

More heat, less beat. Involving the hammer is a slippery slope, can escalate quickly!

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcR9LQGNkvTRXjRNtlcz6gwx8HtuOg1mgIF5IUgx5-QtgBQ5IK9L&usqp=CAU

...  and I know nothing! I did not even make this post!

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Limbshaker
(@limbshaker)
Alabama
Joined: 7 years ago
Posts: 228
 

The one shroud that I removed off an FWB took a helluva lot of grunting and a lot of heat from a propane torch. I don't think 300 degree liquid would make one fall off by any means. And on the one I did, if it cooled off a little, it was "stuck" back in place instantly. 

David Slade used to do hot bluing and is familiar with those guns. I'd give him a ring before you get started. He may be the guy to do it anyway. 


   
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(@bf1956)
Wisconsin
Joined: 7 years ago
Posts: 511
 

Steam!


   
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marflow
(@marflow)
Washington
Joined: 7 years ago
Posts: 1599
 

rebluing a PB is fairly easy there many parts but not even close to a FWB 300, so that's a factor 

the barrel shroud is as stated a real problem 

if any hot blue salts were to get under the shroud and not get flushed out you could have a very big corrosion problem, i'm thinking 

steam doesn't have enough temperature in a unpressurized application 

the shroud if glued on completely has a lot of surface area and it seems from posts that you can reactivate with heat the glue  and then it will reset when cooled 

and on hammers, remember your goal is not to harm the patient, in this case a FWB 300 

is this a case of leaving well enough alone 


   
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Gratewhitehuntr
(@gratewhitehuntr)
Florida
Joined: 7 years ago
Posts: 1882
 

Yeah, I only mentioned hammers so I could urge caution alongside.

 

Don't try pressurizing the steam, it makes hammers look like child's play. Hottest thing in the kitchen!


   
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(@_10metershot)
Illinois
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 5
Topic starter  

@limbshaker I sent it off to David Slade.  Thanks for the tip bro!


   
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