yes the 6 and 6g are the same for the most part the biggest thing that i found was the cocking linkage pin and that is a big deal when disassemble. the 6 uses a plain pin the 6g uses a splined pin
now Umarex used to do them but not cheap after shipping to and back and the service is about 180.00
so are they easy to do, not if you have never done one before
you will not have the right tools or know the tricks that are needed to do the work
and then there are the parts use only factory seals and then there is the right step spacer washer and end cap filler
i said tricks, well i guess it is knowledge
someone well help point you in the right direction
i fix just my own
@marflow Thanks Mike, I cant justify $180 to have it rebuilt! do you have a suggestion on where to get the correct seals?
shipping charges is usually more than Repair itself! I paid $120.00 for shipping and $95.00 for repair & parts ! Yes it was worth it Gun shoots better and smoother than ever ! Mine was a HW 35 E Rifle ! Has a Expert Tuner do his Magic! Not he fault shipping charges were so high ! Still thinking it was well worth it and would do it again !
I have a Diana Model 6 that needs rebuilt? any suggestions on who might rebuild it?
You might try David Slade:
Good luck, keep us posted!
HM
David Slade did my Beeman original 6, basically the same gun. Turned out good. The Giss mechanism is complicated by two opposing pistons and springs that operate simultaneously cancelling out all recoil.
I just sent a FWB 65 to him for repair and he estimates 4 weeks until he gets to it.
@bruce Ya cant beat David for his work and timely manner. He's repaired all mine except one.
I had Umarex rebuild mine probably 8-10yr ago. They did a good job BUT it looked like they used vise grips to get the pinion gear caps off!!!
David Slade is very ethical and competent, but I don't know if he works on Giss systems. Pilkguns might do, and I can recommend their work.
Seals are available but I don't know if the slave piston bumper is available. These are classic old guns and deserve to be used and appreciated. best of luck to you
i have rebuilt 7-8 of these pistols for myself and i do not remember the rear seal ever in bad shape of course i did replace it when inside
now for those who want to do these yourself get factory seals, why they fit, you can not resize the front seal in any good way and the reason i say this is the seals at Air Rifle Headquarters the red ones are to big
now the seals in the pistol are a SOB to put on and after they are on you are not going to take them off period
next there are many stepped washer sizes that time the pistol gearing and if you have just one you use that right or wrong but it is the preload to take the pressure off the gears .3mm
and in the cap there is a spacer 2.5-3.0-3.5 urethane or some material like it, it will be stuck on the step washer and a crumply mess, now you need the right one for 2 reasons
one is to push the stepped washing tight again the tube and second to line up the cap screw
you are not going to have the right piece on hand, i came up with a solution, .3mm and .5mm Teflon sheet good
with those two sizes you can make any spacing you want to fill the cap, i use .6mm test plastic i cut out a top off something those give you 2.4mm-3.0mm-3.6mm
find the right thickness take out and put in the Teflon and i always add about .3mm to make sure
cleaning the tube always no fun, with the barrel off stand in up in .93% rubbing alcohol and soak
take a wood dowel cut a slot in the middle and use it as a grinding tool because the old seal can be like old crumbly epoxy soak scrap soak scrap
to finish i always run a 3/4 inch cup brush on a cable Dremel tool down the tube and clean and clean and clean again
now that dowel broom stick you use to clean well it has another purpose getting some lube in the dry tube
i have been using Ultimox 226 take a new sponge put it in that slot add some lube to the sponge and wipe the cylinder with it
it will leave a small amount of lube on the surface and then do your normal lube behind the seal add a very small amount on the springs and re assemble
now this is just some of the things i do and these are just ideas you can use file away doesn't matter to me
but you can see that knowledge is needed and we have not talked about disassemble or reassemble
and remember when the side gears are in place with the caps on you can take the rear cap off and on to get the spacing correct
it is a lot but with the right tools and knowledge they are easy
Waffencenter Gotha has the most parts Enrico can help you, shipping sucks you have to do a money transfer
and for those who think their seals are fine but have no record of when keep a watch out
years ago a seller said the pistol was tested and everything was fine, i wrote him a message about the seals and such, he went and shot it 40 more times and the seal failed
if you see a model 6 or 10 that need seals take 150-180 off its value in the condition it is in if the a model 6g-6m has wood grips in great shape they are worth 80 bucks as a bonus but you will find them small in a big mans hands
one last thing the model 6 has a plain pin in the cocking linkage the 6g-6m have one that is knurled in the center of the pin and are very hard to take out, because the knurling cut its way into the metal, so before reinstalling remove some of it to be a tap in pin not a pound in and out pin
i have more but just some ideas and observations on the Diana model 6-6g-6m
