I received my .177 second generation Stormrider today from PA. Normal excellent packing by PA. I was pleased to see the Diana box filled with Custom cut to fit foam. The rifle sat snug as a bug inside the box. I'm inclined to make comparisons to The Benjamin Disco, because of the similar fps, weight and price. I am 99% sure this is The SPA made rifle from China, which is basically the same as The M-rod Air Varmit model. I went for the Diana model from PA because I have had in my mind buying the Co2 version from M-rod in the near future. Other reviews seem to reflect mine, so I am sorry if this sounds like I'm piling on.
The gen 2 comes with the 2-stage trigger. I was tempted to go for the gen 1 version and save a few bucks , but am very glad I went with the new model. The manual does not address adjustments to the trigger so I left it as is. Long first stage and a heavy but very clean break as set. I hope I can adjust for a lighter pull. All that said, the trigger is pretty sweet, especially when you compare it to a stock single stage Disco trigger setup.
The overall fit and finish is excellent. Best of any rifle I have had in the price range so far and that includes a new Disco, though I think I like the Disco stock better for looks. The Stormrider gets the nod for overall feel. Some things that quickly caught my eye are the steel trigger, aluminum trigger housing and aluminum safety button. The breech is aluminium as well with a nice steel extended tipped probe. It sports a decent bolt handle, but I have never been a big fan of o-rings as grip aids. The front site and muzzle break are molded plastic, but these also show very minimal flash lines and look great. The rear site is quite well made of molded plastic and very adjustable for windage and elevation. The stock finish reminds me of my gen 1 marauder with that pale fake looking finish. That said, it feels great, is light and fits me just about perfectly when shouldered. I'm hopeful that it will darken with time. Finally, even the buttpad is perfectly aligned and made of a nice textured hard rubber. Not hard plastic, so it grips nicely against my shoulder. All that said, the overall fit and finish is great. Everything seems to have been designed, machined and assembled with this in mind. The quality department seems to be on the ball.
Filling was straightforward with a handpump. I only pumped up to about 120 bar. Pumping is the least enjoyable part of pcp's. A compressor is on my short list.
Up next, shooting and accuracy testing! I mounted up my Konus 6-24 scope and set it at 12x. Target out to 20 yards and set about sighting in. After about 7-8 shots, I had it pretty close. Using H&N Baracuda's I placed a 5-shot group within a 1/4" . Impressive, since the cudas have never grouped all that well in any other rifle. My gage was in the yellow when I finished but I started just in the green at about 120 bar. Noise level seems pretty quiet to me, but I shoot a lot of .22 rimfire out here, so I may have become kind of used to a higher level of noise. It seems no louder than my HW95 springer at any rate, and I remember my Disco's being much louder.
Next up, I'll try out some more pellet types for accuracy and check fps. I pumped up to 150 bar. That's about as far as I can get right now. I'm recovering from chemo and radiation treatments, so I've lost a ton of weight/strength and like I mentioned earlier, a compressor is the only way to go if you really wish to enjoy a pcp. Pumping sucks, even when healthy!
Well, if you've read any of my posts, you know I'm a fan of the Snowpeak airguns. I have, in order of acquisition, a .177 CO2 MrodAir Plinkster rifle, a .177 pumper Seneca Dragonfly, a .177 CO2 Diana Chaser rifle/pistol, and a .22 Diana Chaser pistol.
You're right, the later guns have a really nice trigger. But if you have an earlier one, the AoA aftermarket trigger is a high-value addition. Also, the AoA FFHDD has given me about a 33% increase in gas mileage on the CO2 guns. I suspect it would work equally well on the inflatables, but I have no experience there.
There are two things that these guns suffer from out of the box: a really dirty barrel, and a really sharp leade. Both of these are easily addressable, due to the ease with which you can remove the barrel without disassembling the gun; just a few setscrews. I won't go into barrel cleaning. We all know how to do it. As far as dressing the leade, less is more. All you need to do is slightly break the edge with a round needle file. Anything more aggressive, and you risk compromising the backup for the bolt-sealing o-ring in the breech end of the barrel. Without this simple mod, wadcutter pellets can be difficult to load, and pellet shaving can occur. Just ease the edge ever so slightly, and all is right with the world.
I found the fit and finish on the two Diana guns to be very slightly better than the MrodAir and Seneca, but not enough to discourage anyone from the latter two. Across the board, these are remarkably well-made guns, irrespective of price point.
If you're still thinking about a CO2 version, I LOVE my Plinkster, AND my Chaser. The former can benefit from the aftermarket trigger, and both benefit from the FFHDD. The Plinkster looks and feels more like a traditional rifle, and the Chaser is extremely light and handy. Your choice, or do like I did and get both! You can't go wrong either way.
Tried out the Stormrider on Co2. I used a Benjamin fill station connected to a 20 oz. bottle. When I went to refill for a 2nd time, the seal on the on/off valve let go! I'll need to replace that before I can continue.
FPS ranged from 650 to 780. Temperature was about 70 degrees and as the gun warmed up from sitting in the sun, the fps increased. I did not record shots or count them for that matter, but I was in the 50-60 shots before fps was down below 650 again.
A couple of observations are that; 1st, accuracy seems comprised, but this could be that I wasn't zoned in. Still it shot ragged clovers with H&N Baracuda's at 20 yards. 2nd, from last experience with my Disco and Mrods on Co2, I would need to mess with the spring pressure and TP in order to flatten the shot string.
Well, this was something that I did spur of the moment. I have a compressor on the way, so Co2 use will more than likely be put off until spring.
Has anyone else experimented their Stormrider with Co2??
snip ... If you're still thinking about a CO2 version, I LOVE my Plinkster, AND my Chaser. The former can benefit from the aftermarket trigger, and both benefit from the FFHDD. The Plinkster looks and feels more like a traditional rifle, and the Chaser is extremely light and handy. Your choice, or do like I did and get both! You can't go wrong either way.
Please educate the ignorant: what is FFHDD ? Also, fixing the leade - do you mean you put a rat tail file into the breech end of the barrel? My heavens, if I tried that, I'd probably ruin the machine.
Please educate the ignorant: what is FFHDD ? Also, fixing the leade - do you mean you put a rat tail file into the breech end of the barrel? My heavens, if I tried that, I'd probably ruin the machine.
FFHDD stands for free flight hammer debounce device, engineered by Steve in NC, and currently available thru Airguns of Arizona. Efficiency is increased by roughly 33%, due to the elimination of hammer bounce against the valve stem, which wastes gas.
As far a dressing the leade, I removed the barrel, removed the o-ring from the breech end of the barrel, and ever-so-slightly broke the edge using a jeweler's round needle file. It doesn't take much.
Well, if you've read any of my posts, you know I'm a fan of the Snowpeak airguns. I have, in order of acquisition, a .177 CO2 MrodAir Plinkster rifle, a .177 pumper Seneca Dragonfly, a .177 CO2 Diana Chaser rifle/pistol, and a .22 Diana Chaser pistol.
You're right, the later guns have a really nice trigger. But if you have an earlier one, the AoA aftermarket trigger is a high-value addition. Also, the AoA FFHDD has given me about a 33% increase in gas mileage on the CO2 guns. I suspect it would work equally well on the inflatables, but I have no experience there.
There are two things that these guns suffer from out of the box: a really dirty barrel, and a really sharp leade. Both of these are easily addressable, due to the ease with which you can remove the barrel without disassembling the gun; just a few setscrews. I won't go into barrel cleaning. We all know how to do it. As far as dressing the leade, less is more. All you need to do is slightly break the edge with a round needle file. Anything more aggressive, and you risk compromising the backup for the bolt-sealing o-ring in the breech end of the barrel. Without this simple mod, wadcutter pellets can be difficult to load, and pellet shaving can occur. Just ease the edge ever so slightly, and all is right with the world.
I found the fit and finish on the two Diana guns to be very slightly better than the MrodAir and Seneca, but not enough to discourage anyone from the latter two. Across the board, these are remarkably well-made guns, irrespective of price point.
If you're still thinking about a CO2 version, I LOVE my Plinkster, AND my Chaser. The former can benefit from the aftermarket trigger, and both benefit from the FFHDD. The Plinkster looks and feels more like a traditional rifle, and the Chaser is extremely light and handy. Your choice, or do like I did and get both! You can't go wrong either way.
Hello jiminpgh
I sure hope you are still monitoring this 9 month old thread.
I have chaser .22 pistol.
Where can I learn more about, purchase, and get install instructions for the FFHDD (hammer) Mod?
I understand your apprehension, but it's really pretty straight-forward. Just follow directions, and you'll be fine. I used a 14mm socket wrench and a hammer to set the washer. On some SPA guns the stock inlet is built for a flush end-plug, and the AoA kit has a slightly domed end-plug. You may need to do a little sanding to allow for the domed end plug. No big deal.
Well worth the effort considering the increase in gas mileage!
I understand your apprehension, but it's really pretty straight-forward. Just follow directions, and you'll be fine. I used a 14mm socket wrench and a hammer to set the washer. On some SPA guns the stock inlet is built for a flush end-plug, and the AoA kit has a slightly domed end-plug. You may need to do a little sanding to allow for the domed end plug. No big deal.
Well worth the effort considering the increase in gas mileage!
Hello jiminpgh
Thanks for the encouragement.
Of course I will follow instructions.
From the picture it appears as if Part E (Guide) is not used & that Part H (Hammer spring is used);
I understand your apprehension, but it's really pretty straight-forward. Just follow directions, and you'll be fine. I used a 14mm socket wrench and a hammer to set the washer. On some SPA guns the stock inlet is built for a flush end-plug, and the AoA kit has a slightly domed end-plug. You may need to do a little sanding to allow for the domed end plug. No big deal.
Well worth the effort considering the increase in gas mileage!
Hello jiminpgh
Thanks for the encouragement.
Of course I will follow instructions.
From the picture it appears as if Part E (Guide) is not used & that Part H (Hammer spring is used);
- Does the tether loop pass over Screw D or does Screw D end up passing inside the loop?
- Does the tether route up inside the Hammer Spring?
I would not consider this apprehensive BTW; Just plain old scared to death
Ed
Ed,
Sorry that the FFH instructions are less than transparent, and that I'm so late to the party. I only just now noticed this continuation of your thread.
1. Correct. The guide is not used with the FFH.
2. Screw D passes through the tether, so that the tether loops around it.
3. Yes. The tether is routed through the hammer spring. This is the main reason the guide can't be used.
Jim's advice (e.g. for setting the washer with a wrench socket that fits the tube) is excellent.
I expect that most folks would just dive right in and figure it out along the way (Eh jiminpgh?)
My apology for being so focused on the detail & continuity of the install
Upon retirement one just doesn't let go of 40 yrs of Ballet/Theatrical production management; anticipating each step, fallback positions, and Plans B,C,D that go into getting the show up & running.
The parts have been ordered from AoA
I have an older version of the Chrony F-1 that will serve well for comparing before & after results
...Upon retirement one just doesn't let go of 40 yrs of Ballet/Theatrical production management; anticipating each step, fallback positions, and Plans B,C,D that go into getting the show up & running.d
Ed, anyone who built a career coping with cataclysmic disaster (e.g., overstarched tutus) will have no difficulty installing a simple FFH!
...Upon retirement one just doesn't let go of 40 yrs of Ballet/Theatrical production management; anticipating each step, fallback positions, and Plans B,C,D that go into getting the show up & running.d
Ed, anyone who built a career coping with cataclysmic disaster (e.g., overstarched tutus) will have no difficulty installing a simple FFH!
Do I sense the l'aire of NC School of the Arts, Steve?
