bought a couple Chaser on one of PA sales and have been sick as a dog but had a chance to remover the LDC off one and take a look at the trigger system
LDC came of with 2 rubber jawed pliers, I put a little first
now the trigger there are 2 adjustment screws
the sear spring is a 3mm OD x .47mm wire x 11.5mm in length spring under the sear and it sits in 2 pockets one on the sear bottom and one in the tube, so of to looking for small wire diameter springs and they were easy to find but should I go 0.30mm wire or 0.20mm wire ordered both
now the reason for the edit
I was making observations with the trigger in place, the trigger in adjustment will pull the sear up and away far enough that it clears with no camming but when you have no trigger in place and push nthe sear with a finger you see camming and that is a dumb mistake on my part
now with the trigger adjusted and holding the hammer by the end there is a lot of load on the sear from the factory spring, so that is where I'm going to work
I'm also editing post below this one and again forgive my error
mike
take care
mike
When I got mine, trigger was ok but a little bit stiff. a bit long 1st stage and had to force the safety to set. So I had to tinker mine to make it smooth shooter. Stiff trigger was fixed by softer spring from a disposable lighter, long break..adjust in set screw, hard to set safety...remove big set screw on top of trigger and cut 2 coils off the safety spring then put back adjust the set screw insuring it's not touching the sear or it'll be hair trigger. I wish all trigger are this easy to tune.
I just noticed this thread. Based on your description, it sounds like they must have made a change to the geometry of the trigger group. I have a CP1-M (pistol predecessor to the Chaser) and a CR600W rifle and they both responded extremely well to polishing and a lighter spring. Much better than the various Crosman 13xx and 22xx triggers I’ve done similarly. That would be a shame.
well after working on the trigger and sear together by adjusting the trigger the cam effect is gone so I will order some light springs to see what that does, a longer second stage screw helps, it has a m3 x 3mm and put in a m3 x 6mm
the safety ball has no lube at all and it has a m4 x 4mm grub screw as a cap to the ball and spring I shorten 1mm to make it flush
the trigger needs some shimming, something in the .010 range and no more then .011 word take the side movement out of that and it has 2.5mm pin
all I have for now
everyone take care
mike
Been following this one closely. I currently have 4 Snowpeak guns; .177 Plinkster and Dragonfly, and 2 Diana Chasers, (.177 and .22.) I bought Steve in NC's replacement sear for the Plinkster and Dragonfly, and have been very pleased with them. The earlier non-Diana guns benefit greatly from this aftermarket trigger. When I got my first Chaser, I was pleased to discover it already has a very workable 2 stage trigger. (Note that Steve's aftermarket trigger will not work in the Diana Snowpeaks. The geometry is completely different.)
I am not aware of the hammer cam effect you refer to. Not saying it isn't there, just that it doesn't present itself to MY trigger finger. All I needed for the two Chasers was a lighter spring, and some fiddling with the screws, to give me a very nice re-settable two stage trigger that predictably breaks clean without creep or undue effort. None of these guns will ever have a true match-grade trigger, but all of mine are at the point where I don't feel as though the trigger is limiting my accuracy potential.
FWIW, the CO2 guns benefit greatly from the AoA hammer de-bounce device. You can expect a 30-35% increase in shot count over factory with zero loss of MV.
Now, when will I be able to buy the long Dragonfly barrel with a threaded end to accept the VERY efficient moderator from the Chaser? I've said it here before. If parts were available, these guns would be the 21st century version of the Crosman 22XX platform. Modders paradise.
Hector, are you listening? 🙂
I have edited my first post because I made a mistake and the cam effect can only be seen without a trigger in place and that is where I jump to conclusion but I do think a lighter sear spring is in order, also a longer grub screw at the back of the trigger helps, has a m3 x 3mm, I put in a m3 x 6mm
ordered some lighter springs 0.2mm and 0.3mm in 10mm length to replace the 0.47mm spring
sorry for the screw up on my part, I believe I have fixed all of my post to read correctly
No prob Mike! I honestly appreciate your enthusiasm. These are WONDERFUL little guns, aren't they? The Chaser trigger is far and away better than the factory triggers on the early Snowpeak guns.
Funny but true story: I bought an early Plinkster for $109 (shipped!) I fell in love with the gun, but somehow knew it could benefit from some development. I don't have the capability to do such things, so I bought another one (also at $109 shipped) and sent it to Steve in NC. I told him I was more interested in de-bounce and increased gas mileage. But the first thing he did was fix the trigger. Sent me a prototype to test. It worked perfectly. Then he tackled the hammer bounce. Also works perfectly.
Full disclosure: I have no business connection with Steve-in-NC. I've been an admirer of his work for quite some time, and I thought it a good investment for the airgun community to send him a gun to play with, especially at such a low investment. We all reap the benefits. I find it interesting that the Diana version of this platform has already addressed the trigger issue that Steve has so elegantly solved for the earlier versions.
Now, when will I be able to buy the long Dragonfly barrel with a threaded end to accept the VERY efficient moderator from the Chaser? I've said it here before. If parts were available, these guns would be the 21st century version of the Crosman 22XX platform. Modders paradise.
Hector, are you listening? 🙂
Jim;
Always. Even when it doesn't seem I am. LOL! But my wife could have told you the inverse, ROFL!
Just two days ago I sent some data to PA to accompany their release of the Altaros regulators for all SPA/DIANA airguns that have the manometer inset into the pressure tube with an attachment block and sleeve, like the Stormrider.
They are non-vented regulators, so do NOT put them away to be used a year from now. They come packed with a N2 fill but the packaging is less than hermetic.
Also do NOT disassemble completely. You would need to send the basket case to the plant in Czechia to get it re-assembled.
Use as directed and they will provide the most "bang for your buck" in all guns (except the Dragonfly, LOL!)
This is only the first step, lots of other goodies are planned, but, as with any large company/group, it's going to take some time, among other things because some of those new thingies need a patent.
Now, having said that I do have to point out that neither DIANA, nor PA will ever sell moderators on their own. It's a VERY grey area at present, and unless the law changes (there is a proposal to do just that that has been stuck in Congress for some time, and, presumably will now be forever stuck), the law still requires a number of things, the least of which is not the transfer tax stamp for the sale of moderators.
So, all moderators will be INTEGRAL to a barrel.
Another surprise that MAY come to pass is a vastly improved barrel in the DIANA issued SPA guns.
Trying to keep everything in perspective, you need to remember that from the time we finished the development of the Altaros regulators, to the present, more than a year has gone by.
Yes that is how long it takes for things to become consumer accessible reality.
Hopefully, next "thingies" will be faster to be brought up on line, but it may be that some of them take even longer because they are so revolutionary that they need a patent.
In the meantime, remember to be safe in your tinkering!
HM
About the barrels. It is not a tease. We're on very serious negotiations to have a European barrel used in SOME guns.
While the Chinese barrels are excellent at their price point, once (as you well point out) the workmanship issues have been corrected, they top at around 15 ft-lbs in 0.177" and about 18 ft-lbs in 0.22" above those energies, the barrels come "short" not only on the physical length (with the attending efficiency and noise issues), but also on the long range accuracy (35-45 + yards).
While the powerplant, once regulated and optimized for a pellet, can give much better performance.
So, to keep a "balanced" system we are looking at several European manufacturers, to see if we can cost-effectively, use a European barrel in some guns. The price increase and the specs will not be for everyone, but I am sure that about half of the airgunners would like to have the option to purchase either direct from "store" or as an aftermarket part, a better barrel.
Again, we are just starting this process, so it could be quite some time before this becomes a customer-accessible reality; but I want all the friends to see the great lengths at which DIANA is going to ensure that the brand stands for a solid, technically capable, and customer oriented team of professionals.
Of course, a custom gunsmith is always an alternative to the long wait.
😉
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
Thank you sir for such detail. I hope my tease comment didn’t come across the wrong way. I assumed it likely you would not be at liberty to disclose much. That was how Crosman personnel played it a couple of years ago when they announced their barrel improvements.
It’s interesting to hear SPA is looking to serve both ends of the spectrum. It’s another parallel we can draw to Crosman having their own barrels and offering upgrades to LW.
As a consumer, I like to see that type of competition. Though to be quite honest I have found SPA’s mainstream models to be of higher quality and value even as they stand today so I look forward to seeing ongoing improvements.
