i have been rebuilding a Diana 10 that had a fresh rebuild 8 years ago and at the time of getting it back just stored it got it out the other day and i forgot it was a honker
and i said lets see why
the why was the job done was horrible at best and it had a red seal
now everything has been made right but i have a question
i have done 7-8 model 6 pistols and the step washer most of the time that comes out goes back in
the one that came out was a 0.8mm but that make no difference because the rebuilder never cleaned the cap
so new blue front and clear rear seal and the rear piston is 1.54mm inside the tube and if i move it back it would be 1.2mm outside the tube
the step washers come in 0.2mm to 1.4mm at 0.2 mm increases and none of those do the job and i have a full set
the space between the step washer and end of tube is 0.3mm as the book says
now i have made a stepped washer that would be in the range of 3.1mm by add a washer and some foil tape and it will be screwed together and yes it is a PITA
anyone every seen a Giss pistol so far out of spec and there was a new spring set installed
and yes i have screwed with this pistol way too long
and for the rebuilder the model 10 is no different than the 6 in difficulty
hopefully Hector will chime in
Mike, if you're waiting to hear from a guy who knows more about these pistols than YOU...it will be a long wait! 😀 For whatever the opinion of a guy who's never worked on one is worth, your solution to the odd clearance gap sounds workable to me.
Another fellow who knows these guns inside and out is Dave Slade at Airgunwerks. Might be worth giving him a shout.
will Mike thank for the compliment
it worked fine
the trick is when the cap is spaced correctly 1/4 turn from getting the cap lined up the side cap should not turn and the why is the springs are putting pressure on the gears and when you have it spaced right that 1/4 get the cap lined up and the side cap turn easy with 2 fingers
i always thought the model 10 was going to a nightmare but it isn't all the trigger parts need to be removed is the trigger and the only reason is so you don't damage it
i have my left hand apart now all cleaned up and waiting for a new container of ULTIMOX 226 it had been rebuilt but i what to check because i didn't know
it is interesting the more you work on something the easier it gets, that is a stupid comment but learning and understanding never stops i wish i could teach someone else how to do these
i have read all the posts on these and some are wrong
i will tell you this the cocking pin was push in right to left so to remove take it out left to right
they have a splined center and they cut the right side and the center but not the left and when reassembling i take the majority of the splines off the pin is captured
i hope you are well Mike D.
i made a comment on the direction of the linkage pin to come out and that is not correct i didn't notice that the pin had been damaged so it doesn't matter i guess
Just back from Goshen, VA, took my kid to see a running steam locomotive. Sorry for the delayed response.
I support Monsieur Driskill's opinion. You know much better these little guns than I do.
Glad you have worked it out.
AND THANKS for posting, the forum is what WE make of it, and positive, proactive and creative posts are what makes the forum tick.
Thanks again, keep well and shoot straight!
HM
