I have been looking at getting a nitro piston rifle the last couple days. almost bought a black lightning np2 with dovetail mount and looked at a steel eagle with weaver mounts as well as some regular 1st series nitro guns. I was wondering for those of you who have a few to compare. are the np2 guns easier to shoot and more accurate than np1 guns. I don't care about the suppressors that most np2 guns have and from what I have read the cbt trigger is not very impressive. so is it a waste of my money to get an np2 over the regular original model guns. I also know that the scope that comes on just about all of them isn't the best choice for these guns so I will replace that so its not really a factor I care about. tell me which guns you have and what you love about it or hate about it. this gun would mostly be used to hunt squirrels so accuracy within reason is the highest priority. thanks guys.
I don't have any personal experience with the NP2 guns, but I do have one of the first generation Benji Trail AW guns in .22. It's been a good gun. I did add an aftermarket trigger, which made a big difference, and a LimbSaver barrel damper, which I think improved accuracy a bit. The design of the NP2 piston, seems to be pretty interesting, and looks like it would provide a softer shot cycle. Crosman claims less cocking force, and higher velocity. As with any "spring" gun, accuracy depends a lot on pellet choice and hold technique. My gun seems to like the JSB 14.35gr, and the Air Arms 16gr. pellets.
Like Doug, I did not have an NP2, but had two of the NP 1100 in .22. Shot over 3000 rounds thru the two guns, took over 50 squirrels in a year. Here is my plus/minus.
Plus: Hits like a hammer, has good range out to 65 yards, backyard friendly (so - so), and with after market trigger can hold 3/4" target to 50 yards.
Negative: Heavy, hard to cock, original trigger is miserable, hard on scopes, very hold sensitive. With that said, for under $300 it served me well with no maintenance.
That was 4 years ago. Today, you have many more choices in the spring piston category. For me, I stretched a little on money and now have an RWS 350 Panther. What a joy to shoot by comparison. I still wanted a magnum .22 to take up to raccoon sized beasties. Depends of what you are using the gun for: hunting, plinking, etc.
I have a Crosman Nitro Venom and I've just about given up on it. It is very hard on scopes. I've tried three different scopes. I get it zeroed and it shoots fine for a short period and then I'm having to adjust it again. I go back to my Diana 34 which I've had for nearly two years, still using the same scope. I did put a Vortek spring kit in it. It is very accurate and reliable. I've taken well over a hundred squirrels with it out to 40 yards. The gas pistons are just too harsh IMO.
I have a Benjamin Prowler NP and a Benjamin Summit NP2, along with the third NP XL 1100 I've owned. I've never had any problems with scopes on any of these, a couple Leapers UTG 4x32AO, a couple Winchester 4x32AO, a handful of CenterPoint 3-9x40AO, and a few CenterPoint 4-16x40AO. The NP is still wearing the UTG, The XL's have always worn a 3-9, the NP2 has had a 4-16 on it almost since it arrived.
The Prowler is .177 and shoots CPHP at about 990 FPS average, the Summit is .22 and throws Baracuda Hunters at about 730 average, and the 1100 throws CPHP a hair over 900 FPS. There is a noticeable difference between the NP and NP2 shot cycles, that little cushion on the piston really does its job and it's by far the most quiet spring gun I've shot or owned. The weird thing about all of them is they group better when I really snug them into my shoulder as opposed to trying any variation of an artillery hold and a lot of hold sensitivity can be eliminated with a better trigger. I'd say the Summit just edges out the Prowler for least hold sensitivity, and the XL is the obvious loser in this category but it's really not bad at all once you're familiar with the rifle, I've shot it from some wild positions in the woods and hit home.
To get the trigger to have a nice crisp break will require a long first stage but if you smooth out the contact points on the sears and put some dry lube in there it's great, breaks like glass predictably every time. You just have to back out the screw quite a ways to get it there.
