What can I say? So far I'm loving this rifle. Still lots of pellets to test, but truthfully the misses are of my own doing. I can't wait for when I'm really in the zone! Will try it out at 20 yards tomorrow and maybe 25 yards if that goes well. Shot the jsb blues hole in hole at 10 meters earlier. I think this may just be one of those once in a lifetime barrels that shoots anything better than I'll ever be ? So far...... Very good indeed.
Wow, Has it been that long?
You would think that there would be a good source for a trigger blade or at least a shoe. So far I'm coming up empty. I'm going to try to cobble myself a shoe of some sort.
Not that this trigger is bad, in fact it is the best trigger I've had out of the box on any of the <700. dollar 10m rifles. I think I've had them all now. The Edge does have a better blade though.
I have had 3 of those, all with the two piece target stock like you have. All of mine were turned up to about 16 fpe. I like that they are single shot and that they are so light weight. I also found all three to be amazingly accurate. On one of mine I had a plastic muzzle brake that was concaved on the bottom so that I could remove the cylinder with the muzzle brake still in place. It didn't have any baffles but it was enough to quieten it down. I think I kept the muzzle brake in case I ever get another one of those great rifles. Have fun!
David Enoch
Not really sure when they started....know by 2002 Daisy had a version Valiant XS40. So at least 18 years of production with minimal changes (other than stock styling).
My oldest one dates to 2003. Promised myself I'd buy an after market trigger blade and bolt handle as soon as those parts broke...they haven't.
Freakishly accurate little rifles,I just don't adjust them to too high energy and they return the favor by shooting accurately and not breaking.
so i took an owner manual and dumped it my pictures so i could enlarge it
it appears to be a 2 piece trigger or spilt and you are able to slide it forward and back
and if you Google custom trigger you get this
https://www.rowanengineering.com/products2.htm#s200mprtriggers
so break out your wallet and order up some custom parts
and all of the 200's started production in 2001
https://sureshot-airguns.co.uk/ultra-aacz-s200-stock/
In the process of cleaning one up. Have the Rowan trigger blade and bolt handle but still would love to find an off-the-shelf knee rest/hamster for under $50, perhaps some 3D printed gizmo so I don't have to subject the world to my crude woodworking skills.
Does anyone offer trigger and tuning jobs? I was about to pull it apart and got intimidated.... certainly easy to send the receiver off on these.
An old (likey within the first year or two of production) in Pilkguns site goes a pretty good job of trigger adjustments.....and trouble shooting.
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spdxs40.htm
Intended as a kind of "match rifle", they don't have a safety....lots of match rifles don't.
Same basic rifle as it was in 2001....just a few little changes besides the stock, air tubes will still swap as will stocks.
Can't find it now, but there was a US airgun site that listed Rowan's triggers/bolt handles. Same stuff, don't know if they had a stock of them, or were just acting like middle-men (suspect middle man).
Could be marked different ways...CZ/AA/or even the old Dasiy Avanti...same critter.
Were some "tamper proof" versions, not intended for U.S. sales, but some found their way in anyway. Other than those, can adjust the striker spring tension and the transfer port restriction, and increase power (or decrease it for that matter).
Love the rifles at intended low speeds....even at up-power to about 12foot pounds (.177) or 16-17 foot pounds (.22)...but past that they tend to really suck at shot count .
Thanks. Trigger should be here sometime in the next couple of weeks. Royal mail just handed it off to USPS.
Everything looked good to me and the rep at Rowan sent me pics to make sure. Pretty confident it'll fit up perfectly.
That's a great looking stock! I love the green stain ??
yes, I had to have one when I saw the green CZ in some photos from Europe. A usa airgun member got in touch with Altaros and made it possible to buy for the usa airgunners. Only place I know of you can get it. Regulated longer airtube front fill with guage and fully adjustable stock, with a longer LOP than stock air rifles. Regulated to shoot right at 12 foot pounds. I paid for it but it's one of my favorite airguns. I get 50 good shots at 12 ft. lbs, before it starts to fall off the Reg. Just an FYI altaros told me that CZ was considering closing out production of air guns so they can concentrate more on powder burners which is their main production. Not sure if or when this may happen.
I'll ha be to take a look at those screws when I get my Rowen trigger in. I'm up to a little file work and polishing. All for the greater good!
I did just get a email from USPS that the trigger package is in Chicago as of today. That's good news. I might just have this trigger installed by Wednesday. ?
The one I have is excellent. One caution is that the CC T200's can not easily be modified to higher power setting (16 joule). There is no access port in the cover plate to back out the port screw. Not an issue for me, but I still would like that option.
A dremel will cut a nice screwdriver slot. Worked great on the one l had with the tamper proof. Don
Just remember as the power goes up, the shot count goes down. The 200 doesn't have a lot of air to work with. Don
A dremel will cut a nice screwdriver slot. Worked great on the one l had with the tamper proof. Don
I'll have to look closer at that cover. I did not notice that there is any access point. I was thinking that the cover is solid. I'll dig it out after another cup of coffee and put some magnification to it. ?
In the end, shortly, this rifle is going to my grandson with hopes that he get involved with 10M 3-position shooting. So if I do tune it up, it will need to go back down. Right now I'm loving as is, but that option is pretty cool to have ?
Can not see any access port. 15x magnification.
I've capped and then ground access ports before during my machining career. There sometimes is a round, or partial round circle left where the screw cap and block mate. Not the case here. If it's there, I can't find it. Without knowing the exact location, I'm stuck with 575 fps. I think I have a 25x loupe out in the shop. I'll look again later.
This might just be a solid block without any access. I think I'll give CC a call later today and see what they say about it. Should have done that to begin with, duh
The hammer spring is in the back of the action. There is a small set screw on the side of the action that acts as a "strangle screw". You need to find a parts diagram. I was told by a guy in the UK to open stragle screw, adjust hammer spring to 15 fps above your target fps and then adjust the strangle screw in to get to target fps. I was able to get around 45 shots at 850 fps but it had a Altarous regulator. Don
My .22 200 was 16j when I bought it. The spring adjuster was fixed so a bit of futzin to get it out. Once it was in hand I drilled and tapped it I believe 10 x 32 and loctited a short allen set screw in it. I then drilled a small hole in the stock to access it. But on your gun I don't see the adjustable T/P choke screw.
Looks like one of the tamper-proof ones they were serious about keeping a match speed shooter. Don't see too many of those in the U.S., likely orginal intended for a country with strict power rules. Doesn't change the accuracy.
So the air passage from valve to pellet is one fixed size. Normally it will be a smaller sized passage..pretty much pre-strangled just by it's size,so restriction screw needed to make it even slower.
There is a limit to how much air you can get through the small passage in time to actually push the pellet.
EDIT:
Looking over the common lost of airgun restrictions in Europe...7.5J comes up quite often. Got some odd restrictions here and there..and I expect some of it is wrong (on-line stuff so often is).
Can see where 7.5J would be a good choice for a "tamper proof" version in many locations.
https://www.airgunbuyer.com/international-airgun-power-levels/
Makes me wonder about the "D"prefix shown....Germany?
Doesn't really matter to accuracy that I can tell.
Hoping Hector will chime in on this... What ever happened to those Altoros CZ200's you were importing?
I could have sworn I had already answered this, but obviously, I dreamt it, LOL!
I COULD have imported them, but it would have added cost uselessly. I really could add no value to an already customized gun, so I made the link to direct purchase available to all with the note that there were 3 available.
People bought them directly, and when they were ready, they got shipped directly also. I just acted as an 'Ambasssador' for the US friends that wanted one.
When those three were sold, Altaros looked for more aith CZ and that is when we found out that, apart from the large orders of S-200's by AA, they would not be putting airguns together anymore.
You can read the whole story here:
https://airgunwarriors.com/community/airgun-talk/the-cz-200-s-green/#post-27047
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
give you credits....was a good time to boost the CZ 200's at a good price....got a lot of interest during those sales,and a lot of residual interest after they were gone.
It's still the best accuracy bang-for-the-buck,,,,,,but no one would mind if the same rifle cost less....on regulation is the "in thing".
(Bang For the Buck....do have a Challenger PCP....the AA 200T/S200 both beats it buy a little bit in accuracy, but costs LESS,and breaks down/leaks like 9X less.)
here are some pics of the prototyping of these by me as a Daisy consultant in November 2000, yes, it was 20 years ago I was in England very annoyed by all the Brits who kept saying hahahaah, you Americans don't know who your president is.
dont miss Serial 000001 hanging on my wall
http://www.pilkguns.com/menu_gunsmith.shtml/
Arkmaker’s rifle (shown some distance above) is on the the new “no tamper” rifles. Even if you did add the adjusting screw (air flow limter/strangle screw) the passage inside is smaller than the ones with an adjustment screw.
For a time, would see “tamper proof” ones with the screw hole riveted over and a “blank plug” for the spring tension adjustment. Haven’t gotten a look at that spring adjustment on a “bare sided” (no screw) version….but that screw alone won’t do it.
Germans take that 7.5J limit seriously….rather than trust you to NOT adjust them, want it to be non adjustable at all and leave evidence if you do. I just wonder if the “D” serial number as an indication.
Champion’s ad doesn’t mention it being adjustable….would have been nice to mention that it wasn’t.
S200 Trigger Adjustment
Dan Nelson sent me this S200 trigger tutorial he wrote. It was really good. Dan said he tore his S200 trigger down three times and got to know it pretty well. I hope this helps someone else.
"Trigger bliss!!!! No diagram, but for the third time since I've owned it I took it all down again and started fooling with the trigger....this time I went a little further in disassembly. Here is the updated adjustment sequence:
Small screw in front is 1st stage take-up. Small adjustments go a LONG way, I got rid of 99% of my first stage with just 1 turn.
Second medium screw is 1st stage adjustment, you can actually adjust this in till the gun wont cock, or till you have no second stage till after the gun fires.
Third medium screw is 2nd stage adjustment/travel, here's where you can get rid of some creep(may have to move the trigger shoe to get to this screw).
The last tiny screw IS in fact a trigger stop, you have to tighten this one way down before it'll do anything though
The allen screw that is in the trigger guard at the far after end is the trigger weight, adjust it too far out and it falls out in your hand, adjust too far in and the spring may wind around it. This is an allen head set screw with a little plunger tip on it that the spring rides on. This spring is called out as "second stage trigger pull" or something in the manual, it actually effects BOTH first and second stage weight.
The trigger shoe gives more leverage the further aft it sits on the little dovetail, kinda bad when you get the trigger all setup, then adjust the trigger shoe to fit you and everything feels different than how you set it up:(
Here is how I think it should be adjusted.
Remove the air cylinder. Remove the stock.
Remove trigger guard, spring will come out with it under the far afterwards screw, put in safe place. You'll notice that the trigger still has spring to it, that's because there is a second spring...probably why some say it isn't a true 2-stage trigger, but both 1st and 2nd stage screws DO move the sear, that means it's a true 2-stage trigger, has nothing to do with if it has an extra spring for "feel"....could probably nip this spring down a coil or two and get a REALLY light trigger, but I'm not messing with it. The other spring, the one they call "2nd stage weight" is actually the spring acting on the sear, the other acts only on the blade/dovetail. Remove the trigger shoe, it's in the way from here on out.
The edge of the trigger dovetail has a little groove in it that tends to hang up on the side of the receiver, to remedy that you have to adjust the small front screw in far enough that the groove isn't visible while looking from the side of the receiver....this is why my trigger felt gritty and un-predictable, I was pulling the trigger till I felt that groove catch the edge of the receiver and thinking it was my second stage, then pulling through that and popping through the true second stage....yes, the S200 has a true 2-stage trigger despite any other references. So back off the other screws a bit and adjust the forward tiny screw till the dovetail rocks aft and edge is out of sight, problem solved.
Now adjust the rearmost tiny screw, the one I couldn't decide if it was a screw or a hole, it IS in fact a trigger stop. You'll have to turn this one in till it almost disappears before it actually stops anything. I adjusted mine till it was about 3 turns from completely going through the dovetail, should really be a longer setscrew, may replace it at a later date. If you didn't do it while adjusting the front tiny screw, adjust the two middle medium screws out a few turns now.
If you look just aft of the dovetail you'll see where the "2nd stage weight" screw rides on the sear, push the sear down at that spot ( I used a small allen wrench)and cock the gun (did you remove the air cylinder? If not do it now and be sure you are unloaded).
While pushing this down, with the gun cocked, push the dovetail down like you would be pulling the trigger till it hits the stop. If you backed out the two medium middle screws the gun should not fire. While still pushing on the sear start tightening down the front medium screw till the gun fires, then back off one turn. Repeat cocking procedure, and push dovetail again, gun should not fire, if it does the forward medium screw is still too tight, back off in 1/2 turn increments till it consistently does NOT fire. Now, cock the gun again, and while pressing on the sear, tighten the rear medium screw till the gun fires, then tighten 1/2 turn more. Reinstall trigger shoe, but leave loose. Reinstall spring and trigger guard. Remove aft spring "plunger" screw till it comes out, then reinstall and tighten 3 full turns, make sure the spring lines up with the tip of the screw during re-installation. Reinstall stock.Shoulder rifle, adjust trigger shoe till it fits you right, but remember, the further aft the lighter the pull...mine is fairly far aft, but still comfy.
With air tube still un-installed, cock rifle and slowly pull the trigger, you should have a really light 2-stage trigger. It may be hard to feel the 2nd stage at first, but you should feel it pretty well after a try or two. If you really can't feel the 2nd stage then you will need to tighten the rear plunger screw a 1/2 turn at a time till the weight and feel is right for you. If you pull the trigger and the gun doesn't fire, loosen the trigger shoe and slide forward, and tighten the rear medium screw till the gun fires with the trigger pulled then 1/2 turn more. Tighten the rearmost screw in the trigger guard till the feel and weight are right for you, I left mine in about 4 turns, but I shoot from a bench, if you are going to hunt or carry this gun in the field you will want a heavier trigger.
With the trigger setup this way you should have a light, short first stage, a short/sharp/crisp second stage, and very little trigger blade movement after the gun fires."
Copied with permission from an e-mail from Dan Nelson.
David Enoch