Beeman P1 W/ Blue R...
 
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Beeman P1 W/ Blue Ribbon Scope  

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straitflite
( @straitflite )
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 112
2020-01-18 15:04:27  

I just bought this San Rafael .177 P1 (SN#309417) with scope and rings for $325. Scope does have ring marks which seller did not try to conceal, so I expected that. I didn't expect to find non-factory screws in the grips as shown. The other side has factory screws and I can see some tooling marks with a good quality illuminated magnifying glass. In fact, I went over the whole pistol that way. With that, I suspect someone has either fussed with the trigger mechanicals or has experimented with different grips? I haven't tried any adjustments but trigger is smooth, light and predictable. I see slight surface rust in a few small areas of the barrel's exterior and stainless screws in the saddle that pin the rear of the barrel. These recessed screws are also the incorrect head size OD. Anyone who has ever removed these screws as factory, will tell you that they are a pain, even with a perfectly sized allen wrench. I have always used heat (after screwing up the first time) to remove these. I think Beeman/Weihrauch used the red loctite on these and rightly so for best accuracy, I think. The barrel's inside is perfectly shiny with the excellent 12 groves. No pitting whatsoever. I see no evidence of any  access to the power plant. Having done it several times, I kind of know what to look for. Even the breech seal looks to be original. I have one to fit this era of P1 but fired it over the fairly new Caldwell Deluxe chrony just to see where it was at.

I shot 10 JSB RS 7.33gn in rapid succession. I only remember the first, lowest and highest which were: 575, 570 & 578. The usual tiny puff of burned lube that is characteristic of a healthy P1 was not seen nor smelled. The chrony numbers are fantastic, however IMO. Not too shabby for 30 year old pistol!

I bought this as a project gun and fully intend to give it a total rebuild (grips included). I have intentions of Cerakoting this black and gold and since I have one of the biggest authorized Cerakoters only 20 miles away, it should be easy to get what I want. The waiting period will take the longest. I've never had a scoped pistol or a Blue Ribbon but the optics on this one is crystal clear without a single scratch on the optics. Not too worried about accuracy testing at the moment because much will change.

Anyway, just wanted to supply a tidbit of reading.

Ed, if you read this...you do pistols?

Bo

 

IMG 0971

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marflow
( @marflow )
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 689
2020-01-18 16:10:20  

barrel band screw that come from the factory are as soft as butter and when you go at them they just round out

and they use a clean thread glue, for the lack of a better name  with it

the band is glued down and will need to be knock off

but there is a trick but you have to have the tools

a 3/8 butterfly air wrench and some quality 2mm bits like Wiha 71300 or 73302

and if the screw head is screwed up, a  5/64 carbine drill bit and a impact extractor, I use ATE PRO USA 50201,  back on that butterfly wrench

I bought some replacement screws off Bolt Depot and they are 3mmx 0.5mm x 6mm and are 12.9 hard and then your all set

now I have read different results from many posts, so this is what I found on my pistols


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straitflite
( @straitflite )
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 112
2020-01-18 18:30:37  

Marflow,

that is some handy info, especially the screw sizes and a better source. I'll order those right away

Thanks!


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ekmeister
( @ekmeister )
Member of Trade
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 599
2020-01-19 09:50:55  
Posted by: @straitflite

I just bought this San Rafael .177 P1 (SN#309417) with scope and rings for $325. Scope does have ring marks which seller did not try to conceal, so I expected that. I didn't expect to find non-factory screws in the grips as shown. The other side has factory screws and I can see some tooling marks with a good quality illuminated magnifying glass. In fact, I went over the whole pistol that way. With that, I suspect someone has either fussed with the trigger mechanicals or has experimented with different grips? I haven't tried any adjustments but trigger is smooth, light and predictable. I see slight surface rust in a few small areas of the barrel's exterior and stainless screws in the saddle that pin the rear of the barrel. These recessed screws are also the incorrect head size OD. Anyone who has ever removed these screws as factory, will tell you that they are a pain, even with a perfectly sized allen wrench. I have always used heat (after screwing up the first time) to remove these. I think Beeman/Weihrauch used the red loctite on these and rightly so for best accuracy, I think. The barrel's inside is perfectly shiny with the excellent 12 groves. No pitting whatsoever. I see no evidence of any  access to the power plant. Having done it several times, I kind of know what to look for. Even the breech seal looks to be original. I have one to fit this era of P1 but fired it over the fairly new Caldwell Deluxe chrony just to see where it was at.

I shot 10 JSB RS 7.33gn in rapid succession. I only remember the first, lowest and highest which were: 575, 570 & 578. The usual tiny puff of burned lube that is characteristic of a healthy P1 was not seen nor smelled. The chrony numbers are fantastic, however IMO. Not too shabby for 30 year old pistol!

I bought this as a project gun and fully intend to give it a total rebuild (grips included). I have intentions of Cerakoting this black and gold and since I have one of the biggest authorized Cerakoters only 20 miles away, it should be easy to get what I want. The waiting period will take the longest. I've never had a scoped pistol or a Blue Ribbon but the optics on this one is crystal clear without a single scratch on the optics. Not too worried about accuracy testing at the moment because much will change.

Anyway, just wanted to supply a tidbit of reading.

Ed, if you read this...you do pistols?

Bo

In case you're talking about me, it's been a long time since I worked on a pistol. I did work on a P1 that was getting slightly lower velocity than expected. I was able to boost it up a little bit by removing a burr that was near the transfer report. The owner said he was happy with it.

I had to do some testing with it to make sure it was working right while it was here. I actually had some fun doing that. It's a dirty job but someone's got to do it LOL. I even learned to hit what I was aiming at to a pretty good degree, and that was a new skill for me. A pistol's different than a rifle.

I also worked on a Giss system pistol several years ago. It was quite a chore, but it came out well. That's one of the shooters that has opposing pistons in it for zero recoil.

Although I haven't worked on a pistol for a long time, I can't say I'm altogether against the idea. However, I think I'm reading something else in your description. I hope you won't take this the wrong way. But, to me, it sounds like that pistol of yours is going to need a level work is far above average. Let me try to say this another way.

In the past, I've stated, I can tune them, I can repair them, but I can't resurrect them. It sounds like yours may fall into the latter category, I'm sorry to say.

So, I think maybe Randall Bimrose or David Slade might be your best options. That is, unless another private individual who's worked on his own guns a whole bunch knows your pistol inside and out, and is willing to take on a project that could require quite a lot of extra work. You might even get a better price from somebody who likes to have a challenge, and gets great satisfaction from that. Maybe someone in that latter category will read this post and respond.

Best wishes on getting it all working and looking right. I'm sorry that it appears I'm not the right guy for the job. I'm not trying to just brush you off here. I gave what you wrote a pretty careful read, and that's how it comes across to me.


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straitflite
( @straitflite )
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 112
2020-01-19 10:41:18  

I'll keep all of that in mind. I'm familiar with the other names you have provided but I would prefer you.

Actually, aside from minor issues that I can easily handle, This one is in good condition. No resurrections here, just customization/personalization.

I was thinking more along the lines of just the power plant that comes out as a single unit. Polishing, deburring piston seal fitting and power unit assembly. Powerplant stuff only. I don't feel the need to send the entire pistol.  I'm not trying to gain power (I wouldn't frown on a few fps more though) but maybe a little smoother shot cycle.  I'm trying to get all those parts ordered as new, this morning. I'll use the original piston unless I see something wrong with it. Everything else will be new. I don't think anyone has ever done better than OEM parts from all that I recall reading over many years.

When I get the parts in, I'll check back with you through your email or perhaps   talk on the phone.

Thank you

P1 parts

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ekmeister
( @ekmeister )
Member of Trade
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 599
2020-01-19 12:22:44  

@straitflite

Okay, I got it now. Feel free to contact me at your convenience, and we'll see if we can't come up with a plan.

Thanks!


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marflow
( @marflow )
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 689
2020-01-19 15:42:28  

if you are going for a full custom pistol think about some Herrett grips these

http://www.herrettstocks.com/national.htm

I feel if you can use allen grip screws do it, if the heads are to big, chuck them In a drill and resize, polished stainless work for me

those grips are very nice and you can find them used on Ebay or shop around for the best price

if you can find a full set of barrels buy the barrels, the .22 shoots very nice

I have 2 hw45 a hw75 and a P2

with that scope you paid less then 200.00 for the gun


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straitflite
( @straitflite )
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 112
2020-01-19 17:14:36  

I'm still up in the air about the grips, those are a nice suggestion. I wouldn't mind finding the Beeman Combat grips to refinish with my planned scheme. I bought the screws you pointed me to. at .11 cent each I got six so if and when I try a different barrel, I should be covered on the barrel band 😀 I just spent a couple hours on Chambers and ordered all new pins, springs and bushings and a few other parts. Might be over kill and unnecessary  but if I'm going to do it, what the heck. I ordered the mainspring from Pyramid. I was already thinking about grip screws too. What is killing me is that I cannot get the factory piston seal yet. PA is backordered until sometime in April. Chambers only shows it with the piston. I cannot see spending $60 for a piston that I'm sure I won't need -just to get the seal. That's why I was asking if anyone has ever ordered from Airgun Warehouse. I'll inquire more elsewhere on that part I guess before I wind up with a new piston.

Yes, that scope was a strong selling point. I don't care for the rings on it. I think I'll look for a nice pair of non-steel vertically split rings to accommodate the odball sized dove tail.

 


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marflow
( @marflow )
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 689
2020-01-19 22:31:28  

chamber shows the piston seal PW088

the same one used on a model HW25

I think you will find the airgun warehouse is a dead site most of the part numbers were PA's anyway


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straitflite
( @straitflite )
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 112
2020-01-20 05:30:37  

…..and then the light bulb came on.

I didn't even think to look at the 45 parts list. I knew they were the same gun I just assumed the same parts would be listed. I would have probably bought the entire powerplant (keeping a matched set) but the cylinder isn't available.

Looks like I will be putting in another order. Thank god you're here Mike 😉 


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