Hi All, my 380 was rebuilt about 10 yrs ago using new Maccari seals and spring. Velocity is (I think) well below factory specs. Hitting around 560 fps with 7 grain Diablo Basic wad cutters. Pretty sure it should be up in the mid-600’s. With 8.2 grain wad utters I’m getting about 485 fps.
Couple of other oddities. The first shot I took, after gun laid horizontal for a good 3 years, was spooky. The gun fired by itself just as the side lever touched the receiver (not even latched, just barely touching the side of the receiver latch). After some inspection, I removed the trigger guard only to find a hardened blob of “glue” (I think) behind the trigger, where it meets the trigger sear. It was brittle and basically just fell off into my hand. On reassembly, the misfiring was gone but the trigger would not work. One of the stop pins behind the trigger was causing the trigger to stop short of engaging the sear. I removed this pin to allow the trigger to travel rearward and the gun now fires perfectly. I’m confused as to how this trigger ever fired before, and am suspicious that a previous owner “fixed” this issue by putting that blob of hardened material behind the trigger to make up for the stop pin.
Another curiosity - the 380 parts diagram shows an inner and outer mainspring - I don’t recall getting two springs in the Maccari kit (maybe I did, 10 yrs is a long time…). What’s the purpose of having two springs?
Lastly, I’m well aware it’s difficult to find parts and experts to deal with this small-volume model. So I was thinking about disassembling it myself - take my chances, so to speak. However, this beast has nearly 150 parts and the exploded diagram isn’t super helpful to the unfamiliar.
Does anyone have any disassembly tips, or links to helpful info? Any advice would be much appreciated!
Spare parts lists - ANSCHÜTZ rifles for hunting, biathlon and sports (anschuetz-sport.com)
just because it has that many parts you don't have to take them all apart
many aftermarket springs replaced the 2 with 1
that is only the parts break down only and i see there are 2
now the disassembly my dad said to me once if you take the clock apart make sure you can put it back together again and that is true with everything
if you make it a basket case no one will be happy
Anschutz LG380 | Anschütz (Germany) | Vintage Airguns Gallery Forum
Waffencenter Gotha would be the only place that has part and are on holiday and their site is closed for a little longer
W.C.G. Waffencenter Gotha | Ersatzteile & Reparaturen (waffencenter-gotha.de)
The breech and piston seal is available from Custom Gun parts uk, and I've a hunch he might help with other parts or opinions for 380. Maybe some 250 parts will retrofit? Be happy you don't need anything for a 220!
If you get in trouble and need professional help, I would recommend Champion's Choice and Pilkington. They both have the expertise and parts to service most any classic 10M gun. Neither of them will be a bargain, but you will receive quality service.
Having worked on springers for years, and a few 10M springers, I would recommend professional service on an Annie 380.
Spare parts lists - ANSCHÜTZ rifles for hunting, biathlon and sports (anschuetz-sport.com)
just because it has that many parts you don't have to take them all apart
many aftermarket springs replaced the 2 with 1
that is only the parts break down only and i see there are 2
now the disassembly my dad said to me once if you take the clock apart make sure you can put it back together again and that is true with everything
if you make it a basket case no one will be happy
Anschutz LG380 | Anschütz (Germany) | Vintage Airguns Gallery Forum
Waffencenter Gotha would be the only place that has part and are on holiday and their site is closed for a little longer
W.C.G. Waffencenter Gotha | Ersatzteile & Reparaturen (waffencenter-gotha.de)
Thanks very much, have been checking the Waffencenter link as the holiday clock counts down. I'm no clocksmith, and definitely not an expert gunsmith, so appreciate the warning. I am comfortable with the FWB 300 and 124, but this 380 just looks intimidating from the outset. Of course I realize I don't need to take apart 150 components, but what I don't know is - for example - how to remove the trigger assembly as a complete block. Believe I've located 2 pins that secure the trigger block but what if I guessed wrong... that trigger is amazingly complex. Anyway will keep researching, thanks again.
The breech and piston seal is available from Custom Gun parts uk, and I've a hunch he might help with other parts or opinions for 380. Maybe some 250 parts will retrofit? Be happy you don't need anything for a 220!
Thanks much for the info, I was not familiar with Custom Gun Parts UK, will definitely look into that route. I'm pretty tone deaf regarding European airgun shops in general, other than the gun factories themselves (FWB, et al). Fun side story - I have a pre-owned FWB 300 Universal, which arrived with a cracked stock in 2011. On a lark, I emailed FWB and asked if they had any old FWB 300 stocks lying around. They actually had one, and only one, stock still in their warehouse - and it was a universal. Paid a very reasonable price (forgot now, something like $150 with shipping), arrived a few weeks later. I learned that it is always worthwhile to check directly with the gun makers, you never know what's collecting dust in the warehouse.
If you get in trouble and need professional help, I would recommend Champion's Choice and Pilkington. They both have the expertise and parts to service most any classic 10M gun. Neither of them will be a bargain, but you will receive quality service.
Having worked on springers for years, and a few 10M springers, I would recommend professional service on an Annie 380.
Thanks very much for the advice. I've been vacillating between a DIY project and sending it in for expert repair. This gun has such a low following that I'm half-thinking I should just take a chance on disassembly myself, since no one out there seems to have any practical experience with tear-down other than a small handful of gunsmiths like you mentioned. It's a shame too, because this gun is a hell of a 10m springer. In many ways, more enjoyable than the FWB 300 because the externals don't move at all due to the shroud over the receiver/barrel. Plus the gun just looks badass IMO. Anyway thanks again, will keep digging. I think if I can just get the initial tear-down sequences right, the rest should follow more easily. This gun is burping oil into the breech block with every shot, appears to me that either (a) too much oil was applied during the last rebuild or (b) the piston ring and/or piston seal are not quite tight enough, allowing some mainspring oil to slip past. My FWB 300's are dry as a bone in the breech, as expected. Something is definitely not right with the gun.
Hello,
The LG380 is a rewarding AG to work on, and beautifully designed and executed.
Since you are familiar with the ins-and-outs of the FWB300, I would venture that you can manage the 380, as well.
When I got my 380 it included an owner’s manual that detailed the disassembly steps with enough detail that my reseal efforts were fairly straightforward (also having previous experience with rebuilding the fwb300.) My 380 also has the two nested springs, presumably an experiment in counterbalancing winding torque?
Used to be you could download the manual directly from Anschutz, but now I dont see it out there. Have a look here and see if this will work (disassembly starts on pg34):
https://archive.org/details/gunmanual_Anschutz_380/page/n33/mode/2up
As you know, parts are even more scarce than the 380 itself, so slow and steady on the rebuild 🙂 A spring compressor is a must and the internal non-metallic spring guide can be easily damaged if you don’t carefully control the de-tensioning and re-tensioning of the spring(s).
From the gallery:
Anschütz LG380
See also:
This was the last of the recoilless springer match rifles, dating from the early 1980s - a sidelever based on
Feinwerkbau's sliding 'sledge' mechanism to isolate recoil from the stock (and therefore from the shooter).
The LG380 went one step further and concealed the whole sliding part of the cylinder inside a shroud,
so the only things that move are invisible to the shooter altogether.
If you look at the muzzle on firing, you can see it retreat a short distance into the shroud, and
upon re-cocking, the muzzle locks forward a few millimetres into place.
I’ve managed to disassemble/reassemble the 380 without issue, following the Anschutz manual.
inside the compression chamber was a smashed pellet. Removed it, degreased piston/compression chamber/mainsprings, made sure they were free of any old lubes, and re-greased them with krytox. Changed the piston buffer and the two springs (JM ARH). Put it all back together and… velocity is even worse. Now shooting 8.2g at barely 400 fps.
Haven’t touched the breech seal yet, not sure the safest way to extract it. It has a deep conical recess so there’s not much meat to grab onto. Looking for ideas hw to do this…?
https://airgunwarriors.com/community/airgun-talk/need-an-anschutz-lg380-breech-seal/#post-56721
Removed breech seal, easier than I feared. Link illustrates the procedure I followed.
