I have a 10 or so year old RWS Diana Panther 34. I only shoot it a couple times per year to ward off the large squirrel population near a bird feeder.
The trigger will not reset to hold the spring back. It feels like the normal and smooth cocking action (a difficult but necessary action) and will allow me to try to cock it again but to no avail.
What next?
Check stock screws? Maybe to tight, I've had this same problem but can't remember what caused it. It was not serious and was rectified. Oh and quite possibly the trigger group needs cleaning and lube. Hope someone else steps up with some input.
Spring could be broken as well. The coils will wad up and it will hit coil bind before the latch rod comes back far enough.
First step, is remove the stock and see what you can see.
lets assume a few things -------------TO5 trigger YES-NO
the spring is not broken
it work just fine when you put it away and it doesn't not cock after an unknow amount of time sitting
do i understand that you might have a problem cocking the rifle when it worked right
and you have not touch the trigger adjustment
so if you took of the stock to have a look, are you familiar with what you are looking at
i have read that front trigger guard screw will interfere with the piston as it is too long
so back it out a little bit and try again and if it works, take the screw out and shorten 1-2mm and reinstall
just guessing at this point but most people say broken spring
try the screw first, take off the stock next and i don't have a third move
mike
Ran into the front guard screw barely hitting the piston skirt on a Weihrauch some time back. Did what Mike suggested above and cut about 2 mm off the screw and that fixed it. As mentioned, back the screw out a little and see if that does it.
Also encountered the same issue with broken springs a couple times.
As long as trigger adjustment isn’t out of whack or broke and you’ve changed nothing else I have no idea what it would be.
I would think if the gun worked fine when put away and suddenly doesn't work, more than likely the mainspring broke. When they break it usually happens at the top of the spring where it catches the trigger sear. It will still compress but is millimeters short of catching the trigger sear. Sometimes it will break a little further down and some will keep going for awhile until a piece breaks loose and blocks the engagement.
Try the front screw adjustment on the trigger guard. I have had that happen but only after I was taking the gun apart and putting it back togeather. Screws don't move down with the gun sitting. From use they tend to work loose and move up. There is not much in the way there. The spring comes up and latches on the sear. Maybe a spring guide piece but unlikely.
Whatever it is will come out with a disassembly. If you like fiddling I would take it apart and might as well replace the main spring and seal then properly tar coat it before putting it back togeather. You can clean and moly up or burnish other parts while apart if you want. The gun will be better than new. JM or Vortek parts are considerably better than stock 34.
You might also consider tossing it and getting an HW50 S from Krale for about $300 shipped. It is a considerably better gun.
Yes, the gun was put away working but recently I shot about 8 normal shots after which it wouldn't re-cock.
The barrel opens normally and has full spring pressure but when fully "cocked" the spring pushes the barrel (under pressure) back to the closed unlocked position and is still under spring pressure. I will try to post pictures once I figure out how to add them!
Mainsprings often break right at the ends. Hard to see the spring all the way up inside the piston without disassembly...or it could be a coil broke off at the trigger block. Assuming the trigger adjustments haven't moved and require re adjustment, disassembly is in order. I have taken 34's apart without a spring compressor but a second set of hands are required for unpinning/pinning while forcing enough downward pressure to overcome the spring. I've done that with more than a few springers...careful is the word for the day.
There's much on the web for the 34. For only one example (from this forums library): https://airgunwarriors.com/resources/library/Diana_Model_34_DIY_Tune.pdf
You can do it ? Since it would be a good idea in any case, go ahead and obtain a spring and a new piston seal and some molly paste. It was mentioned above that you should just get an HW50s. I have 2 of them and I'm admittedly a Weichrauch fan but if I was to get another RWS it would be the 34. You'll find a 'stadium full' of folks who will agree that it is a wonderful rifle. Maybe that's why it has been around for decades while others come and go. Telling someone to replace a 34 with an HW50 is akin to telling someone to replace an R9 with an R7.
I'd recommend a full power drop in kit from Jim Maccari: https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251488.htm There may be a few other kits for listed that would serve your needs for other RWS's/Dianas listed there and maybe someone can chime in who has had experience with his RWS kits, or simply email him and tell him what your wants are. I have 5 of his Weihrauch kits. Stay away from Vortek! In my Weihrauch rifles I've had better results with OEM seals, BTW.
Or you could simply replace with OEM parts. Here's a couple examples:
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/mainspring-for-diana-rws-34-48-56?a=8265
If you don't find the spring broken, give the trigger a thorough looking over. I hope you are able to get that bad boy back up and running ?
Eureka, I have found a crack at the very top of the spring and have ordered a replacement.
Thanks to all for the help!






