When the trigger group is out of the gun
I have the tune kit for my B21, and should get it back together this weekend as soon as I fix the compressor. Ordered it Sunday night, it shipped Tuesday and arrived Thursday. Very impressive customer service!
But a more general question: with the trigger group out, can I test function? Without doing any damage or getting it in a state where it won't be easy to get back in? I'm not sure what the safety does. It looks like it blocks the trigger only but maybe it does more. I have airguns where the safety is not automatic, and I don't think I've ever used it, but this one is automatic.
you could but then what, a model D48 TO1 trigger assemble can have the piston center shaft engage and you pull the trigger to release it and that would test function but little else
so if that is your goal give it a go, now your 21 and a Diana 48 is different enough that the trigger assemble are not the same but they should work the same
now taking the trigger assemble apart to see if you could smooth some contact points out now that is another ballgame and I would leave that up to you, remember don't take the clock apart if you can't put it back together
you should be fine
good luck, I'm waiting to hear the final outcome, good I bet
Thanks. I'm going to just assume the trigger works. I looked at a parts diagram and do not intend to take that apart.
However, so far tonight getting that seal onto the piston has defeated me. Warming it with a hair dryer doesn't seem to help. I know you're not supposed to use a screwdriver but I see why you would want to.
Does the piston seal just kind of “pop” on and off with some pressure, like a Diana 34?
I emulated a Utube vid, used a slippery lube (secret sauce) and a flat table surface and just kinda’ rolled/pushed the piston head down into the seal.
Sorry, but I’m not familiar with the particular mechanics of your rifle’s piston assy...
well the seals can be tough, they are on Diana model 6's
so you make a tapered cone, the bottom is a little bigger then the piston mounting area and push it down the taper on to the piston
or you do the above and use a socket and a clamp
so I use some glue dots, very handy, and take your taper and mount it to the piston, make a small round cylinder out the side of cracker box the size of the seal and have a socket the size to fit inside and big enough to clear you tapper
heat the seal place on your setup and let the clamp seat the seal
some seals are easy and some aren't and these are my ideas and even when I did mine it would take a time or two
or you can do what this video shows at 5:30 in to the video
the seal are tougher then you think and then there could be sizing after you get that seal on the piston and other can guide you that process
I watched that video. He twists that seal on with ease.
It did not go that way for me! Couldn't get that technique to work.
But I got it on. I tapered a small piece of wood, slid the seal down, used a bar clamp and socket to push it all the way on.
Sounds easy but it very definitely was not, this was very frustrating. Now I remember the last time I worked on an airgun. I used to have one of those Diana 6 (I think) with the recoil cancelling pistons and those fine thread screws that had to start exactly right.
Anyway, making progress. Thanks for all your help so far, this has been a most welcoming forum.
I did test trigger function while the block was out, and I'm glad I did, or I would have had to take it apart again.
I could not figure out how the safety was supposed to work. It didn't seem to go in where it should. The little piece that pushes it back on when you cock it was blocking it. Because...............I had lost a spring I didn't know was there. The plastic piece that covers the back end retains the spring that resets the safety.
This site explained it:
I can leave it out and the safety will be manual instead of automatic, but when the family's home today I'll get them to look for it. Either way finally assembly happens today.