MOA Arithmetic and Zeroing a Red Dot Sight
Can anyone provide the MOA math and methodology to zero a red dot? I think I know how, in theory, but I seem to be spending excessive trial and error time. Nor can I achieve a really tight bullseye. Consistently tight groups, yes, but all deviated from the bullseye. Yes, I'm using a bench rest, and my normal mode is targets at 1o meters.
I'm sure there are standard methods to rapidly converge on zero. The articles I've read suggest trial and error, as in, "adjust so the point of impact is where it is intended" ... duh, that ain't quite enough info...
So would someone be kind enough to write a "Red Dot Zeroing Guide for Dummies", or provide links?
Thanks guys! Go in peace!
seeing we have no idea what model you have but it really doesn't matter, it's got a red dot and the dot is your crosshairs
just walk it in as you would adjusting any scope
it seems that you can shoot well enough with it, twist the knobs
if you are out of elevation or windage adjustments, then that's another story all together
you got to where you are by twisting the knobs, keep twisting
I poked around the web and found this YT video. This seems like an efficient method to me. What do you guys think?
should I assume you have never adjusted a scope of any kind
because that video shows nothing more then scope adjustment and it does not matter if the scope is a red dot or optic or for that matter open sights
you adjust and test on all sights until you are on target
if the video helps that's great but it is very rudimentary info
Can anyone provide the MOA math and methodology to zero a red dot? I think I know how, in theory, but I seem to be spending excessive trial and error time. Nor can I achieve a really tight bullseye. Consistently tight groups, yes, but all deviated from the bullseye.
The thing about dotters is that none (at least none I've seen) has an AO, and therefore (despite advert hype to the contrary) are all vulnerable to parallax error at any range except the one programmed at the factory -- usually 50yds. This fact, combined with their big exit pupils (often as large as 20 or 30mm -- several or more times that of a typical scope), makes accuracy very dependent on consistent eye positioning.
Sounds like you may be having trouble with that detail.
l like to shoot 3 rounds and adjust for center of mass
Yes, that is a good idea, once you are on paper.
Using the backlit method you can start at 10 yards and have a REALLY GOOD approximation to where you want to be in a few shots, then you can shoot three (or 5) and adjust for center of group.