$109 free shipping. That is cheap if they shoot /work well.....Thinking about trying one. Got any remarks, advise about them? Thanks Brian Smith
Like any others in this price range, it needs some careful deburring and polishing to make it perform really well. Sturdy construction of all metal and wood, a tweaker’s paradise. Frankly, I think it’s the best value to come along since the QB78. And I say that despite the fact mine had rifling damage at the muzzle that I had to cut away and recrown, because once that was done, its accuracy is downright stellar.
Here’s a little writeup I put up here a few weeks ago:
I’ve only seen one other report of this type of damage so I have no reason to think it’s a systemic problem but I wanted to mention it just in case.
In short, if you find it rewarding to make a silk purse from a sow’s ear, you’ll love it. If you want something that works great out of the box, you won’t. But I don’t know of anything in this price range that fits the latter.
$109 free shipping. That is cheap if they shoot /work well.....Thinking about trying one. Got any remarks, advise about them? Thanks Brian Smith firstname.lastname@example.org
There's quite a bit of content on the forum about the Plinkster and her big sisters, the Stormrider, Varmint, and Dragonfly. Try the forum Search function with "plinkster" then kick back with a cold one.
Here's a link to my review of the Plinkster on the old yellow forum-
"No brag; just fact."- Will Sonnett
I like mine so much I sold my QB. Steve's trigger solves the only real issue I had with this gun. And the FFHDD is good for a roughly 30% increase in shot count. Keep in mind that, while it holds 3 CO2 carts, it only uses one at a time, with the cart sealed directly to the valve. Unlike the QB, the tube itself is not pressurized.
Other than the two mods I mentioned, mine is bone stock, and wears a Sun Optics 3-9 shorty forty, which fits perfectly. Possibly one of the best airgun values out there.
I was able to get a really nice trigger action by just adjusting the (factory stock) sear-engagement adjusting screw; no modifications needed.
I won a Shorty Forty at the Texas airgun show last week-end, and can see how it would be a great 'fit' for the Plinkster. I used a vintage 7/8" tube Weaver on mine, primarily because I thought it's streamlined 'racey' look complimented the trim profile of the Plinkster. That said, no question the Shorty Forty is MUCH more functional.
"No brag; just fact."- Will Sonnett
Got tired of trying to hunt up the old post....so made it again.
The trigger has a long "nose" on it. Safety is a cross bolt with a slot. On safe, the solid part of the cross bolt is in place, and the "nose" can't rotate down far enough to fire. On fire, the cross bolt's slot is in place, which lets the trigger rotate far enough to fire.
When you adjust that single hidden screw, changes the geometry for less rotation required....enough that it will fire when you pull the trigger even when it is on safe.
So I worked out a sinmple solution that I thought I'd eventually have to get back to for somthing more workman like (low temp soldering a shim or some other cure). Been a couple of years, and I've no good reason to change the simple solution that works.
If the nose were a little bit "thicker" (in the vertical direaction) it would contact the cross bolt when on safe, and not fire.
So I hunted around for a quick and easy cure just for testing (although it looks like I'll never change it).
I'm a scrounger. I just won't thown away a tube or a spring. I think this came from some rangom pump-spray bottle (as part of the pump spray).
Looked like one section was just about right, so I cut it off (and also salvaged the spring to toss in the "random spring" box).
Then mashed it.
And pushed it onto the "nose".
Well...it worked out just a little too fat to pass though the slot in the trigger guard.
Borrowed a nail emory board and took the sides down until it did fit though the trigger guard slot.
The diameter of that add-on plastic ring does no harm at the top, but at the bottom it allowed the "nose" to contact the cross bolt on "safe"and NOT FIRE.
Worked fine then....and thought it is at best "hillbilly", it's still in place and working fine.
Later on, did the exact same mod (after trigger adjustment) to a PCP "Varmint"...worked just as well.
I didn't get too greedy in trigger pull....prefer a hunting/pesting rifle to have something like 1.1-1.4 pounds of pull for me. If you've a real need for lighter, I'd go with the aftermarket part (although I've not tried it)>
Solution has worked for well over a year without any changes...if it "craps out",will let ya'll know.
Please don't misconstrue. I don't mean to imply there's anything whatsoever wrong with your fix, but only to agree with you that it (or something like it) is needed if you want the Plinky safety work again after trigger travel is reduced by cranking on the adjustment screw.
Actually, what I always do after a trigger mod, is to check that the safety still works, fix it if necessary, then (usually) never touch it again! I usually prefer to uncock if a shot isn't taken.
Yep...if I hadn't had the thought of gifting it, wouldn't have given a hoot if the safety worked or not. As it was, figured a button that does work is better than a button that doesn't work.
On ther big SPA PCP's, the ones with that STUPID cross bolt safety INSIDE THE TRIGGER, have had to jack the trigger guard down in order to get them functioning after trigger adjustment.
Not that I can remember using it (last thing I want to touch is the trigger when I DO NOT want to shoot), but an switch/lever/button that doesn't work is even dumber than one located on the trigger blade.